Page 21 of 21 FirstFirst ... 11161718192021
Results 401 to 420 of 420

Thread: Skeese's 1993 RX7 Single Turbo Build

  1. #401
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    Quote Originally Posted by Littleguy View Post
    I'll be waiting a little bit at least for nitrous, and to be honest the main purpose of it will be a cool ass purge system, lol. Made an appointment at Powerfab today for 9/10 for some maintenance and to check out my tune so I will be hitting the dyno then.
    Nice! I guess that was a few days ago. How did that go?

    Quote Originally Posted by slow&rusty View Post
    Looking awesome!
    Thanks! I can't wait until it is looking (and sounding) awesome again!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ivan90z View Post
    Nice rx7 u really don't see alot of them like that
    Thanks! It has been in a prettier state before than it is now. I've been slowly making progress on the vinyl wrapping of the interior parts but it is super slow due to how anal I am about it being perfect. There are only a few more pieces to go, but I've saved the hardest for last. I'm actually debating ditching the OEM door panels for some carbon racing panels, but haven't made up my mind to commit to that just yet.

    In other news...I've taken on the wiring. As I've torn way way more out of the car than ever before I've come across a number of things that I've decided I'm going to have to fix prior to the motor getting here. The dash harness and instrument harnesses both look horrid and as I'm only going to be using about 1/2 of the wiring in them I've decided to pull both, strip the cover off of each, depin the un-necessary wires, and then remove anything I don't need all in preparation for re-wrapping them. I HATE WIRING. I'm also making a custom harness that will run from the new ECU patch harness that will include the 4 direct fire ignition, the signal wires running from the ECU to the flex fuel sensor and fuel pressure sensor, and the power and ground wires for those sensors to terminate behind the AC panel. I've ordered legit delphi weatherpack connectors to make the connections, braided wire loom, lots of heat shrink, and will be using a combination of mil-spec wire I sourced from work and some 14 gauge 4 conductor sealed wire for the ignition triggers. Should be legit when done.

    Summit racing tells me my last round of parts arrived at the house today. I'll update when I have a harness to show and my fuel tank cleanup and coating is complete. I'm aiming to knock out all of this stuff this weekend if possible. Thanks for still following me guys! I've still got a long way to go, but it is going to be fuckin awesome when I get there.

    -Skeese

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many
     

  3. #402
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    So I've finally made some progress...

    Installing the speedhut 10K tach in the OEM cluster wasn't actually that bad at all compared to what all I had read online. It ended up just being some dremel-trimming and alot of trim-testfit-trim work but it wasn't hard at all. I'll be EXTREMELY happy to have a working tach this go around as mine has been busted in this car since I bought it. WOOOOHHHOOOOOOOO OEM lookin' super tach.





    I've got to drill holes through the plastic cover so I can transfer the buttons from the gauge glass I removed from the gauge, then I'll officially start putting items back in my car!

    -Skeese

  4. #403
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7

    Making...Progress...Must Do More...

    So I've finally made some progress again. This whole waiting 8 months on a motor thing has been killing me but I'm within the 2 month window until I get my hands on it so it is GO TIME.

    I rolled the car out of the garage for the first time in 6 months and cleaned it up really good. This will be the last time it sees outdoor daylight until it has a motor in it. I wanted to get some shots of how it looked with the RPF1's on it in real daylight since after I made the move on those rims it just sat in my garage for 3 months. I think it looks kickass, however I may yet eventually have the rims powder coated black. I had forgotten what a solid looking car it was with it just sitting in the garage dead for months on end. This whole ordeal was motivating to get the ball rolling again and knock out some work. Please ignore the 4x4 look in the front, its sitting up super high due to there being no motor in the front to weight it down.











    I also got around to installing my ABS delete kit I picked up a few weeks ago. I don't know that my ABS ever really worked in the first place but can say the entire braking system in the engine bay looks 100X better than it did with all that heavy shit in there. Install was pretty easy, I still have to secure some of the lines, make a bracket for the proportioning valve, and tighten up some fittings but the pics gave give you the idea.







    Last but not least, I've started the process of sealing my fuel tank. I'll be applying the rust preventative fluid today and then the sealant fluid tomorrow. I'm hoping it turns out alright but already accepted that if it doesn't I'm going to cut my losses, scrap the damn thing, cut out my trunk, and just go fuel cell. We shall see though.

    Thanks guys! More updates to come in what will hopefully be short order.

    Skeese

  5. #404
    Baby Duck Nfinitecc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    South of Town
    Posts
    2,332
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    FD RX-7
    I don't regret removing my ABS at all, lady cut me off a couple days ago, first real test of my brakes and it did wonderfully, cars so light it stops on a dime.

  6. #405
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    Quote Originally Posted by Nfinitecc View Post
    I don't regret removing my ABS at all, lady cut me off a couple days ago, first real test of my brakes and it did wonderfully, cars so light it stops on a dime.
    I'm already all for it just for the look and the weight savings. I honestly feel like it will actually be safer and more likely to work with the that ancient ABS system that may or may not have even worked eliminated from the equation. A year ago or so I actually went out to this huge parking lot and physically tried to get my ABS to kick on by flat out flooring the brakes at 50 MPH or so and I never could get it to, so I don't see the issue with removing it.

    That all being said, I'm going to need your help with some powder coating stuff here really soon. I'm planning to pull off my calipers this weekend and start cleaning them to ultimately get powder coated red. My friend who I'm getting the motor from just had his redone and seeing the picture of the final product made me realize how shitty mine look and how bad I need to do mine too.



    Lastly...and most important update of the month here...I landed a new job. Starting November 7th or so I'll be working as a Mechanical Engineer for Lockheed Martin Space Systems on the Orion Project. I'm beyond stoked about this new job and can't wait to get there to start learning new stuff. I've obviously never worked in the space technology field before (uhhhhhhhhh who really has??) so this will all be brand new to me. I wasn't very good at ever being wrong to start with so now that I'm going to officially be a rocket scientist...at no time, ever, in any situation, on any planet will I ever be wrong...I mean guys come on...it doesn't take rocket appliances.

    Thanks for still following if you do, I'm hoping this will be getting more and more interesting as we close in on peripheral port motor time in December.

    -Skeese

  7. #406
    ?\(?_o)/? Littleguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Amrica
    Posts
    2,828
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Car
    LS460 / FD
    Very cool, congrats on the new job! Good thinking in powder coating the calipers.

  8. #407
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    Quote Originally Posted by Littleguy View Post
    Very cool, congrats on the new job! Good thinking in powder coating the calipers.
    Those sadly aren't mine but the set my friend just had done that motivated me to do mine. I know Nfinitecc has a power coating setup so once I get the stuff ordered and in I'll try and harass him into helping me out...if he ever has time outside of wrenching on that V8 RX7 that is always breaking on him.

    -Skeese

  9. #408
    ?\(?_o)/? Littleguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Amrica
    Posts
    2,828
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Car
    LS460 / FD
    Hahaha, let me know when ya'll are doing it, I'd love to stop by and watch.

  10. #409
    Baby Duck Nfinitecc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    South of Town
    Posts
    2,332
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    FD RX-7
    Good lord, a oil pressure sensor goes out and it's the end of the world!!!!

    Whenever you're ready for the powder just lmk you can come get it. I painted mine because I was too lazy to remove all the pistons/seals for powder, I want to take them back out and do it again myself.

  11. #410
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    Quote Originally Posted by Nfinitecc View Post
    Good lord, a oil pressure sensor goes out and it's the end of the world!!!!

    Whenever you're ready for the powder just lmk you can come get it. I painted mine because I was too lazy to remove all the pistons/seals for powder, I want to take them back out and do it again myself.
    Sounds good. By the time you are done with your mega work month I should have it all ready to go.

    In other news...

    Finally some progress, I think at least. I've been busy with other non-rotary related things which has been totally find since I've mostly just been killing time until I can get my new motor, but I am within a month and a half now so it is time to get back on it.

    I spent a solid few days sealing the tank last week where I did the 3 step system from KBS coatings exactly as per the instructions. After the seal material had set and cured for 4 days I pumped the tank back full of E85 and rigged up a drain from the sump outlets with an on/off valve. I figure I'll let it sit there for a full week then drain it through my spare filter and then check for contaminates. Call me paranoid I guess, but I want to know 100% for sure that sealant isn't going to come off the inside of the tank and cause a sealing problem. I really don't think it will though. That KBS sealant is some tough shit. I spilled some on my concrete driveway that sat there for a while and cured an I do belive it will outlast the driveway. Seriously, that stuff isn't coming off.

    Assuming my tank passes the seal test alright, I'm going to put the tank back in, and measure to see how much room I have on the side to mount the pumps. I'm still planning on using a pair of 044's with the XRP direct mount prefilters. I'll be upgrading my Weldon fuel filter I have never used to have a 10 micron SS filter. At this point all I really have left to do to start making physical forward progress is to settle on a line/fitting brand and commit to it.

    At this point I've kinda narrowed it down to the four options in the chart below. At this point this covers the dual -10AN lines from the sump outlets to the prefilters, then the line from the pump discharge manifold to the post filter inlets/outlets that will ultimately terminate in the engine bay with the Y block where the lines will split to the rails.



    I haven't quite figured out how I want to do the engine bay portion, but really just because I haven't figured out if I want to run -8AN for the whole thing including the return OR split from the Y block to -8AN to the secondary rail and a -6AN to the primary. Also unsure as to if I need a 6 or 8AN return line from the regulator back. Anyways...I'll be moving on to that part of the plan next. As always, any suggestions or comments are welcome!

    Cheers guys, I'm glad to be back at it. Pics and test results from fill test to come next.

    -Skeese

  12. #411
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    Alright fools it's about to get real. After a LONG ass wait I'm 2 hours out from Houston with my new super port motor and bigass turbo in tow.

    I'll be posting pictures and the plan of action likely tomorrow, but more importantly does anyone on the south side of town have a motor lift? My friend who had one sold his without consulting me!

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
    FD RX7 - "Two Tornadoes And A Weed Whacker"
    SEMI-PERIPHERAL 2-ROTOR BUILD IN PROCESS

  13. #412
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    Gentlemen,

    I thank you all for sticking with me through the darktrials and tribulations that we have all pushed through across the last nine months and I am glad to inform you that a great time is upon us. It is now time to prepare for the impending glory to come. We aren't out of the woods just yet though, but there is a bright light powered by completely obscene insane rotary nastiness that can be seen seen at the end of the tunnel. Lock up your daughter and hide yo wife, batten down the hatches, prep the hyperdrive, and brace yourself for the hater onslaught because IT IS GO TIME.

    ENTER THE SUPER SEMI-PERIPHERAL PORT BUILT/BALANCED/CLEARANCE/PINNED ROTOR HEART.



    In all seriousness, thanks for sticking with me to those who still follow. It will be getting real interesting again real soon. I made it back from picking up the whole package in South Carolina and can't be more excited.

    After a LONG drive across the South Eastern US I finally made it back.


    And with the help of my friend Jose got her relocated into the garage.


    And looking at it in person I realized that not only are the peripheral ports wild looking, but the FD iron ports that had been ported out to the size of the larger Cosmo ports look HUGE in comparison to the regular ones.









    I'm absolutely sold on 3.5" hood dump pipe. I thought the one I had for the other setup that I never got to use looked serious but this thing is outright RAW NASTY in comparison. I've got some cleanup work ahead of me getting everything ready, cleaned and prepped but actually getting my hands on this lot (and pulling off affording it) has been a huge milestone.

    Next:

    Sell some shit. Buy stainless custom welded oil pan. Buy (1) ID2000. Buy a bunch of front end motor accessories to hang off of it. Drop motor. Buy a bunch of fuel pumps and make fuel lines. INSTALL AND FIRE.

    I don't have a motor drop-in date yet as I recently got engaged and that is going to be taking up a bunch of my time, but I plan on doing it all right this time, 100% no expense spared the way I want to do it.

    Cheers fools!

    -Skeese

  14. #413
    Honda Molester / Lab Tech GSRVic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    639
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    The one with Gas
    Where the updates on this monster?

  15. #414
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    Quote Originally Posted by GSRVic View Post
    Where the updates on this monster?
    I quit posting on here when I realize I was talking to myself. While the rest of HI has been chatting in the stupid lounge, I've been working.

    I had hoped it would go alot faster once I got my hands on the motor, but as always I got carried away and took on good bit more. I upgraded to a custom oil pan that wasn't cheap, changed my fuel system plans, cut a hole in my hood to run the hood dump, pulled the harness and completely converted it to suit my needs inside and out...and I halfway tuned it all on the haltech from the post above that I got with the motor, but then I sold that and upgraded to a Haltech Elite 2500 and started over.

    I'll ultimately come back in here and document all the progress for the sake of being complete since this thread was years in the making to get here. BUT....here is link to my recent feature in rotors magazine.



    As of now...the rebuild of the car is mechanically complete and everything needed for 750HP is there. I'm in the process of tuning it myself and just going slowly. I debated having someone else do it, but decided that I'd feel like a sell out after all of this, so I'm just gonna nut up and tune the nasty bitch myself. Right now its running ~10 PSI on pump 93 and I'll be filling up with E85 hopefully this weekend and turning it up.

    I can say this semi motor is beyond nasty. It really really doesn't like low load or low rpm very well, but when you cross that 6500 rpm mark there is a definitive change in tone and you feel it lurch forward. I can't wait to hit that powerband at 30+ PSI.

    Skeese

  16. #415
    Honda Molester / Lab Tech GSRVic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    639
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    The one with Gas
    Fk yeah,
    I dont get on H-I much cuz well not much content, FB killed it.
    Plus sold my lil swapped honda to buy a house so no import.
    Looks like your still putting in work though so thats awesome.
    Thing sounds mean AF no wonder you didnt LS swap it LOL

  17. #416
    Rotary Rocket Appliance Skeese's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    SEMI P RX7
    Quote Originally Posted by GSRVic View Post
    Fk yeah,
    I dont get on H-I much cuz well not much content, FB killed it.
    Plus sold my lil swapped honda to buy a house so no import.
    Looks like your still putting in work though so thats awesome.
    Thing sounds mean AF no wonder you didnt LS swap it LOL
    I honestly prefer the forums to facebook for actual car info and think facebook is ruining the car scene. People see pictures or video's and mindlessly blare their opinion without any idea of the backstory, work, money, design, planning or idea of what went into that car.

    It definitely isn't for the feint of heart or those who scare easily, my goal is to make 30 PSI by 3900 rpms or so and hold it up to 9500-10,000 and just rock whatever hp number that makes me. Regardless of what that ends up being...its going to be one fast car at 30 PSI

    Skeese

  18. #417
    Baby Duck Nfinitecc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    South of Town
    Posts
    2,332
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    FD RX-7
    Good info! That's why we keep getting disconnected on Facebook LOL I keep getting rid of it because I feel like it's such a waste and probably the downfall of our society . if you get to the point were you still need some wide open areas to tune hit me up !

  19. #418
    n00b
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    262
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    1992 FD RX-7
    Understanding Your Engine and Proper Care Leeds to a Long Life

    Early in the thread there were a few posts about rotary engine reliability. It is true that these engines are more prone to detonation problems, but the main causes for most of the failures were not the engine design. It was due to either Mazda’s shortcuts in the cooling systems, poor modifications, or under - educated tuners and owners. This is understandable due to the rotary engine being so different than normal 4 stroke engines. This discussion will stick primary to the later 3rd generation 13B-REW engine that were factory twin turbo charged.

    First let’s get the displacement correct as even Top Gear got it wrong. The 13B-REW is listed as 1.3 liter.
    That is active working displacement based on one revolution of the crank. Mazda calls it an e-shaft but it is still a crank shaft. It runs comparable to a 4 cylinder 4 cycle engine for 2 revolutions. For two revolutions of the crank, it has 4 ignition events for a total of 2.6 liters of displacement. Thus to compare a rotary to a 4 cycle engine, you must double its rotary displacement. 1.3 L rotary = 2.6 L 4 cycle. After all air consumption or working displacement are the bases for equality. The stock twin sequential turbo engine produced 225 whp at 10 psi boost.

    Some failures were due to lack of oil, water, or induction cooling. The engine uses oil cooling for 1/3 of cooling needs. The 3rd gen (FD) RX-7s normally had only one oil cooler. It was air cooled and not race quality. Only the FD R1 (racing) version came with 2 in series air oil coolers that could handle high power. Thus oil cooling was lacking in the early days and missed by some tuners and owners as they were not aware of the need for proper oil cooling. There is an aid which is a constant flow larger oil jets for improved rotor cooling. A rotor is the engine’s equivalent to a piston. But this required rebuilding the engine to install.

    The OEM radiator was not up to the demands of the FD’s power in hot weather like the south. You could not run full power for long in summer. It was adequate only for winter. Even the early semi - racing all aluminum radiators were not adequate for the power people were making. It wasn’t until the Koyo “N” Pass radiator that this problem was solved for street use and some track use. Some people ran Evans coolant to prevent boil over or localized hot spots, but this does not cool as good as water thus requiring bigger radiators. Running 100% distilled water, or 25% antifreeze with 75% distilled water increases cooling. Plus one bottle of Water Wetter helped. Running a 175F thermostat instead of the 185F helps and is still good for winter. Using the Mazda recall “radiator fan test switch” to increase the cooling fans speed by 1 on demand also helped. The cooling system has 3 fan speeds.

    The stock FD intercooler was so small and inadequate that the engine had to run about 10 AFR in the summer to prevent knock and cool the intake charge. In winter when it was adequate, the ECU actually leaned out the AFRs. There was a detonation problem for uneducated drivers in winter. They would stop for a short while with the engine turned off. The intake system would heat soak. The air intake sensor was under the intake manifold above the engine and it would heat up. The newb driver would drive away using too much power before engine temps stabilized, and the engine would detonate.

    The first fixes were larger stock mount intercoolers. They did a better job but still only got air flow while driving and that air was heated by the radiator. The next were front mount intercoolers. They were fitted directly against the nose opening which caused two problems. They might have been better but the full IC was not getting air flow and it restricted air to the radiator increasing water temps. To solve this, a new nose was needed for the front of the car. The late FDs starting around 1999 had a greatly improved nose with large openings for the oil coolers and a large opening to get more air to the IC and the radiator. One company (Blitz) had a different solution. Their front mount IC was actually further back from the nose opening. This allowed air to flow through the IC and some around the sides to give the radiator full air flow. It allowed better air and water coolant system operations. Then if you added some simple custom ducting and a mild nose intake modification, they eliminate the air and water cooling problems. Lastly some owners started using the racing “V” mount design. Great for racing but for street it does not get air flow for the IC when stopped. Just like a stock mount. People then attached fans to the IC. Another problem with “V” mounts is it really messed up the AC. For street cars, it is more of a show off.

    We also moved the air temp sensor from under the intake manifold. The best locations are the IC outlet or the throttle body elbow. This prevents the cold weather stop detonation problem. Then we discovered that the air temp sensor for the Triumph Daytona Motorcycles would work perfectly with our stock or after market ECUs and that they also reacted faster to air temp changes.

    Well known professional tuners were making tuning mistakes. Even with the improved above mentioned modifications, they were blowing engines. And they had engines tearing their selves apart due to too aggressive porting. The rotary engine has ports like a 2 cycle engine instead of valves. If the ports were not properly sized or prepared, the rotor side seals could catch the edge of the port and break them which ruined the engine.

    Some early owners would make exhaust or intake mods with stock ECUs. They blew engines due to stupidity.
    The OEM ECU uses a pressure sensor to control timing and fuel. If pressure remained stock but air flow increased the engine would go lean and blow. The earliest modified ECU for increased power were reprogrammed OEMs. They basically just reduced timing and added a lot of fuel.

    Thus owners who were not educated would install these without any other mods and they would run wild without paying attention to or operational conditions. With a lot more power and stock radiator and IC, BOOM!

    I got my FD in 1992 and was already experienced with high performance cars. With one of these reprogrammed OEM ECUs, larger stock mount IC and radiator, a better fuel pump, a good EBC to control boost, removed pre-cat, a hi flow main cat, and a HKS cat back, I ran it from 1994 until 1999 and made 320 whp without any problems. This ECU was capable of about 350 whp at the max. My car was a dayly work driving car here in Houston. Being safety conscious of what your engine can safely do is paramount.

    In 1999, Apexi came out with the PFC which was the first easy to program RX-7 specific ECU. Here is when the first owner and tuner problems really began. From the factory it came with what was called a base map for lightly modified engines. Many modifiable functions were not documented as to what they were for and did. The first problem was the trailing spark plug timing was bad. The engine has two plugs that fire for each ignition event of a rotor chamber. The IGL (leading or first to fire) is the main plug and produces the most power. The IGT (trailing or last to fire) slightly increases power but is mainly there to reduce emissions. The timing difference between IGL and IGT is called split. Anyway, the IGL timing in the map was decent and followed standard timing curves. But the IGT had many imperfections in it. Inconsistent values and some values so wrong that split was so little it can cause detonation by having the two flame fronts burning too fast. Some tuners would reprogram the PFC for your mods and many times would change the IGL values and not the IGT values, BOOM! Some people like me did much experimentation with the fuel related tables.
    That is when we learned that they were terrible for a well prepared engine, and that Mazda reduced fuel as the intake air temps cooled down in cold weather. Some well prepared engines that were tuned in summer blew in winter. Our new modified tables followed the actual natural air density vs. air temperature curves for various altitudes.

    As we experimented, we learned from many sources how to properly use the PFC and make it safer than it came from the factory. Even with this published information on the forums, some tuners did not learn. Boom more engines died.

    Today most owners and tuners understand the engine and know how to make it live. But idiots still creep in. Remember my 1994 - 1999 320 whp engine? It got sick in 1999 from a rear rotor oil cooling jet which came unscrewed from the crank and drastically dropped oil pressure. I am the only one to ever report this on the forums. Thank you Mazda, up yours! But that gave me the incentive to build my own engine to my standards. Starting in 1999 it has been making 350 whp. In 2005 the car was fully upgraded including a Force Performance HTA GT3582R turbo. I have been running around 420-450 whp since 2005 with stock ports. The car and me in it with a full tank of gas weighs only 2735 pounds. Water or methanol/water injection are great.

    So if these engines are so bad, why has mine lived and never blown up? This year the car turned 25 years old and now wears Texas Classic Auto Plates. It has over 140,000 miles on it.

    Note: V-8s have greater internal mass and rev slower than a rotary!

  20. #419
    n00b
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    262
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Car
    1992 FD RX-7
    Quote Originally Posted by Skeese View Post
    It definitely isn't for the feint of heart or those who scare easily, my goal is to make 30 PSI by 3900 rpms or so and hold it up to 9500-10,000 and just rock whatever hp number that makes me. Regardless of what that ends up being...its going to be one fast car at 30 PSI Skeese
    Once you get around 500whp, if you do not strengthen your transmission and differential, both will blow. That is why I stay at about 450 whp.
    The stock trans main input shaft under high torque will flex and third gear will shear off teeth. You will need the Japanese gear set with stronger shafts or have the bearing areas of the trans strengthen. If the diff does not have external braces, the cast iron will crack or shatter. You want 750 whp as you posted, better install a Supra or other trans.
    http://osgiken.net/i-24705656-crgk-m...it-ratios.html

    As I said, you have to know and understand these cars to make them survive.

  21. #420
    The Conductor Premium dantheman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Ellis Juan County.
    Posts
    28,263
    Mentioned
    69 Post(s)
    Car
    TOO BAD HERE BOMB! FUCK U
    high torque? its a rotary, it doenst make torque lol.

    thing sounds regoddamndiculous. glad you are still enjoying it skeese.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •