Nitrous questions

[MATT87GT]

1. What are the pros and cons of direct port vs single fogger ?

2. How hard is it to make a dry kit into a wet kit and how much should this cost with new parts.

3. What is a safe amount of nitrous for a stock (block and head) , high mileage b18a1.

[al]

1. What are the pros and cons of direct port vs single fogger ?

Single fogger, your computer has to compensate for the additional oxygen by injecting more fuel via the fuel injectors. Direct port, an optimized mixture of nitrous oxide and fuel are injected together into each individual intake port.

2. How hard is it to make a dry kit into a wet kit and how much should this cost with new parts.

Not hard, but expensive. You'll have to buy a fuel solenoid and you'll need to get an additional fuel fogger. Then you have to fab lines.

[MATT87GT]

I think i made a mistake, when i said single fogger i meant a single shot of wet not dry.

[Sry0fcr]

1. What are the pros and cons of direct port vs single fogger ?

2. How hard is it to make a dry kit into a wet kit and how much should this cost with new parts.

3. What is a safe amount of nitrous for a stock (block and head) , high mileage b18a1.


1. Single fogger only has 1 nozzle mounted in the intake tract, direct port will have 1 nozzle per cylinder mounted in the intake runners aimes directly at the intake ports. That's what you want, it's not THAT much more expensive.

2. It's not very hard, but nitrous parts are expensive as fuck when you buy them seperately, you'll need a wet nozzle, a nother fuel line, fuel tee & a fuel solenoid. Probably $150-$200. Fuck a dry kit.

3. That depends on what kinda shape your motor is in, with a proper set up you COULD spray a 100 shot relatively safely. But I wouldn't reccomned doing that unless you're running ECU controlled multi staged systems like Neptune.

[MATT87GT]

Well as soon as i get a good transmission, Neptune will be my next mod, then I want to spray it.


I guess what i really want to know is the pros and cons of direct port vs a single shot of wet. Would direct port be safer,give me more power or whatnot.

[BoostedTypeS]

1. Single fogger only has 1 nozzle mounted in the intake tract, direct port will have 1 nozzle per cylinder mounted in the intake runners aimes directly at the intake ports. That's what you want, it's not THAT much more expensive.

2. It's not very hard, but nitrous parts are expensive as fuck when you buy them seperately, you'll need a wet nozzle, a nother fuel line, fuel tee & a fuel solenoid. Probably $150-$200. Fuck a dry kit.

3. That depends on what kinda shape your motor is in, with a proper set up you COULD spray a 100 shot relatively safely. But I wouldn't reccomned doing that unless you're running ECU controlled multi staged systems like Neptune.

wut he said

[evolutionsentra]

1. Single fogger only has 1 nozzle mounted in the intake tract, direct port will have 1 nozzle per cylinder mounted in the intake runners aimes directly at the intake ports. That's what you want, it's not THAT much more expensive.

From what i've seen, direct port kits are about 2x as much as wet kits.

[Sry0fcr]

NX EFI Direct port $689.00
NX EFI STG 1 $579.00

This was the first thing I saw on Google... (http://www.machv.com/nitrousoxide.html)

Things get kinda expensive onve you star adding in accesories and multiple stages/progressive controllers ect...

[Big Turkey]

2. It's not very hard, but nitrous parts are expensive as fuck when you buy them seperately, you'll need a wet nozzle, a nother fuel line, fuel tee & a fuel solenoid. Probably $150-$200. Fuck a dry kit.



What's wrong with the dry kit?

Okay here's the deal. The wet kit, as everyone knows, spraying fuel along with the nitrous. A dry kit does not. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

Let's start with the dry kit. The Dry kit sprays nitrous alone.. so it's more consistent. If it's a MAS air car then some people spray it before the MAS to let the ECU compensate, which I don't like to do. The other way is to run a separate tune on the car and spray it after the MAS and just tune it accordingly.

With the wet kit you have to tap into your fuel somewhere and let the fuel spray with the nitrous. The good thing about that is that you get tons of torque and the "hit" is alot harder with the wet shot than it is with the dry shot. The bad thing is, not really bad, but downside, is when your bottle pressure is lower than it makes the car run rich cause not as much nitrous is in there. Also, on the wet system there is a chance, if you have too much fuel or spray too early in the RPM range you puddle the fuel in the intake and BOOM. Game over intake manifold and whatever else was in the way.

I like nitrous and I like wet shots. But there is nothing wrong with a dry shot, I plan on running one on my car soon enough, and spray it right after the MAS, before the supercharger. I will run a separate tune for the car, so it will pretty much be failsafe.

Be sure that when you do get a wet shot, get all the safety features that are available for it. A WOT switch, window switch, fuel cutoff switch and make sure that you get a heater, purge and liquid filled gauge to make sure that you are consisent with things.

[Sry0fcr]

While everything you say is true, I was speaking from a strictly Honda standpoint. I still stand by my direct port >>>> single fogger statement though.

[Big Turkey]

While everything you say is true, I was speaking from a strictly Honda standpoint. I still stand by my direct port >>>> single fogger statement though.
Forgot to add that the smallest shot you can go with a direct port is a 80 shot, since you will have 4 jets and the smallest you can go is a 20 shot. Good luck with whatever you do. Go turbo, you go faster.

[235TURBO]

a wet fogger is more dangerous than a direct port in the fact that the ammounts of nitrous and fuel are prolly not gonna be broken up/distributed evenly between cylinders. my .02

[Sry0fcr]

a wet fogger is more dangerous than a direct port in the fact that the ammounts of nitrous and fuel are prolly not gonna be broken up/distributed evenly between cylinders. my .02


Nozzle placement is key... From what I've seen most guys put it too close to the TB.

[Sry0fcr]

Go turbo, you go faster.

Hahah I've decided to "go" with an S2000 and turbo that. :thumb:

[235TURBO]

Nozzle placement is key... From what I've seen most guys put it too close to the TB.

it can be for fueling, but lets not forget the air distribution in a manifold will be the big key for massive wet fogger shots.

[Sry0fcr]

it can be for fueling, but lets not forget the air distribution in a manifold will be the big key for massive wet fogger shots.

That's why I tell folks to go direct port when going over a 75 shot. :thumb:

[DIRTYJOHN]

Hmm i been driving nothing but honda accords and CL.. all of my car, i run nos.. See i think Wet system stage single fogger to the intake works alot better and safer then direct port. I started out with a 96 accord 2.2 L vtec motor and went with the NOS direct port, it works good, buttttttt u dont get that mnay spray.. VEry consistent though.. After 115 mph if u spray again, the transmission will start slippin. Then got a 2.2 CL.. Use a NX wet system stage one.. use a 41 nos 14 gas for the pills for 75 shot. RUNS REALLLY GOOD.. Its automatic and i hit 14.7 second at baytown drag strip. Then i got a 2 door 97 SE accord.. vtec motor.. i ran 50 shot nos.. it work pretty good.. one bad thing i hate about wet system is you cant launch on the take off.. it lags. Then i switch off to a 98 3.0 cl.. use dry NOS system.. 60 shot.. I like dry alot better.. WHY? eversince i started using dry system, i realize u can launch the car and spray at the same time.. does not hurt the car or ruin the motor.. No gas to lag on the launch.. whats bad? The high end does not get enough kick.. BUT hey the take off is really important.. Now i am back to a 4 door accord.. I just ordered a 75 shot zex nos kit.. SO when i get it.. i will tell you how it worked out..

[SecretAgent]

that last post made my head hurt. looks like it came from a 10 year old on a sugar high.

[FbodTrek]

Ok heres the deal. Direct port is the hardest hitting, LEAST likely to cause a backfire or meltdown, although due to the hard hit, it is also the one most likely to break a rod...(depending on the size of the hit of course). Nitrous enters the chamber in a liquid form with most direct port setups.

A single fogger wet setup when properly installed will have a ramping effect when it comes on (over about half a second, maybe a bit more-because the nitrous is expanding in a gaseous form, which hits softer than the liquid version in the direct port setup). With a single fogger wet setup, power distribution to all cylinders can be an issue, but can be rectified by installing the nozzle in the correct position and by spraying at a high enough RPM that the air velocity leaves the mixture no choice but to even-fill. With the single nozzle setup, puddling can occur, which can lead to a nitrous backfire BAD.
As far as juice on a stock bottom GSR....maybe 80hp. I wouldn't go higher than that without alot of tuning and safety goodies.

If it were me, I'd go direct port if I could afford it, and single wet fogger at 4500+ rpm if I couldn't. Nitrous is very safe if you know what you're doing, and highly addictive. Direct port setups are sweet, and they work well, always better with forged rods though.