Old air cooled VW's

[slideshow240]

i was wondering who on here is secretly in love with the old air cooled vw bugs? nothing like that. (and dont flame,im serious as hell)the bug was my first love for a car and i still have yet to own one, my goal is to build the 240, make it a weekend car and have a clean restored VW as my daily beater. like this one but not exactly...

http://tinypic.com/1h58nc

and this one just has a clean ass drop!

http://tinypic.com/1h58o2

[slideshow240]

and yes that is a 57 oval ragtop vw bug!! no idea whats under the rear deck. and the red one is early 60's

[JDIAZ]

I love the old school vw's. every time i go to mexico i see clean VW's. but i have yet to reseaerch and really get into them.

[appleburger]

man, look at the rear camber on the first one! crazy.

[that_guy]

Negative

[Dorian]

Negative
lol. Word. Sorry duder.

[ofay]

if i had the money to spare i would fix my ghia, but its too slow for too much money.

[RACER X]

first 1 is nice......i'd like one as well. top selling car in the world.

[Evil Patio]

I only liked the Corrado and Scirocco

[slideshow240]

well the ones in mexico are not the classic bugs....its a actually a newer year all the way up until 2000 actually. they just retained the old style and kept producing them....notice the blinkers went to the bumper instead of sitting on top of the front fenders?

[PEPSI1]

old school VW's rock.

i would LOVE to have one....with some empi rims, nice drop, clean inside out..
engine fixed up a bit...old school cruiser

[PissYellowGTi]

i do.. are you surpised? :)

[slideshow240]

no^^^
i want a old VW bug with porsche phone dials and a 2110cc motor, dual IDA 48 weber carbs. 2 inch noarrowed and 2 inch dropped front beam. grey Jbugs.com interior, etc. etc.

[CBR_TOY]

they are clean i would love to have one....especially one with a 2110cc motor and maybe some gas. they're clean though.

[NismoFreakS14]

I like them... but I'd rather have a 911.

[g0lden]

I really like them alot

D

[nightracer]

man, look at the rear camber on the first one! crazy.
I was just gona say something about that. Haha I was originally going to gripe about both of my VAG cars I own but that bug is pimpin with the chrome Fuchs. I have those same wheels on my 944 but their black with a silver lip. stockers. hehe

my slow ass vw is annoying though we call it the volksbroken.

[tit$]

that first one is pretty cool. there was somebody selling a pretty nice one a while back i bid on, but he didn't care for my offer too much.

[Tbone16]

Finally , I loved aircooled posts. I just got my motor back from Veedub trends, and am about to finish up my pan for my ghia. That is no doubt a clean oval, but a clean vw is very expensive to drive. The second bug is nice, but but I doubt he can cut the steering wheel all the way around, he needs a like 2-4 inches hacked out of that beam. For the money, I like beat volkwagens and rods a little better. My ghia isnt going to be anything special, but as soon as I can afford some part from KCW, its is going to low as hell, and not raise up. Maybe a ford tractor blue paintjob, with a satin black rustoleum roof...... 41 chevy tails..... slow and rides shitty. My cup of tea.

[blackrsx]

we have owned 4 of them :-/

[slideshow240]

one day i will have a VW....a bug

[stephenlc]

how does a air-cooled engine work?

[Tbone16]

boxer motor with a big fan on top. and magic. german magic.

[slideshow240]

good explanation....do you know any reliable place i could find an old VW when i decide to get one? (tbone16)

[Toastr]

how does a air-cooled engine work?
Similar in pretty much every aspect to other boxer (flat-four) engines, with the exceptions in fuel delivery (carbs in many models, FI later on), and the fact that its cooled by air, not water. There's no radiator anywhere. The cylinders and heads are cast with fins to aid in the removal of heat as the air flows over them. A fan is used to force down through the spaces between the fins to carry the heat out of the engine bay. The entire engine is shrouded by sheet metal to hold the flowing air to the most efficient path. The fan is encased in a housing which is attached to the aforementioned sheet metal shroud, thus making an air-tight assembly. The cooling air is sucked from the front of the fan housing and blown down through the cylinders. Atop the fan housing is an oil cooler, which stands up in the stream of air and acts like an oil-radiator, cooling the oil which in turn helps keep the internals cool. The louvers that were added on the decklids as the years progressed also aid in the cooling procedure by allowing the heat to rise out more efficiently. If you look underneath the rear window of most VW's, or around the body in general, you'll find louvers punched in strategic locations. The louvers are located in mass-airstream areas, so as the car is in motion more air is carried into the engine bay, helping further the cooling process. All in all, its an ingenious design... just not for places like Texas. However, if all the seals are in good condition, and all the engine tin is in place, you'll be able to drive around in the middle of summer and never overheat :thumb:

[stephenlc]

Similar in pretty much every aspect to other boxer (flat-four) engines, with the exceptions in fuel delivery (carbs in many models, FI later on), and the fact that its cooled by air, not water. There's no radiator anywhere. The cylinders and heads are cast with fins to aid in the removal of heat as the air flows over them. A fan is used to force down through the spaces between the fins to carry the heat out of the engine bay. The entire engine is shrouded by sheet metal to hold the flowing air to the most efficient path. The fan is encased in a housing which is attached to the aforementioned sheet metal shroud, thus making an air-tight assembly. The cooling air is sucked from the front of the fan housing and blown down through the cylinders. Atop the fan housing is an oil cooler, which stands up in the stream of air and acts like an oil-radiator, cooling the oil which in turn helps keep the internals cool. The louvers that were added on the decklids as the years progressed also aid in the cooling procedure by allowing the heat to rise out more efficiently. If you look underneath the rear window of most VW's, or around the body in general, you'll find louvers punched in strategic locations. The louvers are located in mass-airstream areas, so as the car is in motion more air is carried into the engine bay, helping further the cooling process. All in all, its an ingenious design... just not for places like Texas. However, if all the seals are in good condition, and all the engine tin is in place, you'll be able to drive around in the middle of summer and never overheat :thumb:

Thanks for the explanation. The fan would have to be pushing tons of air though right? If its 100 degree weather. A normal water-cooled car would have a water temp of like 150-180 degrees right. So the 100 degree air would have to cool a 400+ degree engine?

[Vincent]

http://www.oceanstreetvideo.com/txbrnmed.mpg (2110)
http://www.oceanstreetvideo.com/underground/quaifemed.rm

[Toastr]

Thanks for the explanation. The fan would have to be pushing tons of air though right? If its 100 degree weather. A normal water-cooled car would have a water temp of like 150-180 degrees right. So the 100 degree air would have to cool a 400+ degree engine?
Not necessarily, don't forget that the air cools only the heads and cylinders, whisking away the radiated heat from their fins. Air does not cool the AC engine alone, the oil plays a cruicial role in keeping the internal temperatures at a reasonable level. But as far as temperature, yes... ACVW engines typically run around 325 - 410* HEAD temperature, with an OIL temp of around 180 - 230*. Despite the heat outside, the way you drive plays the biggest role in determining the temp that your engine will run. I used to putt around all day with my 1600cc (stock engine sizes are 1200,1300,1500, and 1600cc for the Bugs) during the summer, and the temperature wouldn't get over 375* for the heads and 200* for the oil. With my 1904cc (mod motor), I typically ran 340* and 180* respectively (Porsche cooling shroud and remote oil-cooler, bigger engine = more heat = more cooling needed). Romping on it was a different story entirely, as then the 100* air would have to cool close to 500*, which still happened, just a lot, lot slower. The fan cools the majority of the engine, since the cylinders and heads are the only real components that create vast amounts of heat. If your fan is obstructed or not functioning properly, you'll be overheating like a mother.

[VolksFaggin]

I have 5 bugs, all old school. Bugs are by far the best kinda car ever created, and is heads and shoulders over ALL other cars when it comes to racing on the cheap.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/medium/352158.jpg<------- BTW, thats not my motor. I am going to run a 16g instead of a t3 hybrid.

+

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/blueimpulse/bug01.jpg<----- This is my bug. 6 inch wider fenders and 34 ford tail lights. ;)

=

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/170166.jpg


Bug > Everything :D

[Toastr]

Bug > Everything :D
Show me another car that you can pull the engine, completely rebuild to performance specs, and re-install all in the same weekend - by yourself. Show me a car that you can pay $6k for, including the price of the car and engine, retain a complete interior, be fully street-legal and a reliable daily driver, all the while being capable of 11-12 sec 1/4's. Now show me a car that can do all of the above while getting 18-25mpg, and get the same attention and adoration wherever you go. Until someone proves me otherwise, I shall stand right by ya Volks... old school Bug's own all
:rock: :rock:

[stephenlc]

so in theory you could turn any water-cooled engine to a air cooled engine?

[jdude]

i got a red and white bus it's been posted here before 1641 dual port gona make it 1776 and turbocharge it :thumb:

[slideshow240]

what all do you have to do to do to turbo a bug? i want to know for when i get mine...

[Toastr]

Depends if you want to keep the carbs or go with fuel injection slideshow... fuel mapping is generally easier and I've seen more kits for FI than carb setups. I'll poke around... what budget/power you looking for?

stephenlc - no, you cannot. ACVW's were designed that way from the start, to be cooled with air and oil. WC cars were designed THAT way from the start, cooled by water. There's no way to convert an engine from WC to AC, or vice versa without completely redesigning the engine.

[Toastr]

**ran out of time to edit previous post, this goes along with it

You really don't need to turbo a Bug to get mass power out of it. If you poke around, you'll find that the larger displacement engines, such as the 2332cc and up, make more than enough power. Lots and lots of it. For comparison, my 1904cc put out 180hp/159trq at the crank, and 156hp/6800rpm, 142ftlb/4800rpm. While that may not sound like much, consider the fact that these cars weigh 18-1900lbs WITH a driver and a full tank of gas, with every single piece of interior as well. Best time I ever got was a 12.718 @ 104.1mph, with a 1.812 60' (on 26x6x15 slicks). If you're able to dump THAT much money into the engine, don't bother with any sort of forced induction. A 2332cc w/ 75 shot will give you a great deal of reliable power, with the 75-s for when you need some more. You can go all out and get a 2789cc from Autocraft, those suckers are badass. Or you can get the whopping 2840cc, which is good for 158mph with the proper tranny and aero-gear (front ends on Bugs literally lift off the ground at around 110-120 due to the body shape, it's essentially and upside down airplane wing). Just look into some of the larger-displacement engines and don't worry about the turbo.

['89 Probe]

wisdom out the ass matt!!! :bow:

[slideshow240]

but whats the biggest displacement you can go before having to worry about daily driveablility? i heard 2110cc...

[NismoFreakS14]

**ran out of time to edit previous post, this goes along with it

You really don't need to turbo a Bug to get mass power out of it. If you poke around, you'll find that the larger displacement engines, such as the 2332cc and up, make more than enough power. Lots and lots of it. For comparison, my 1904cc put out 180hp/159trq at the crank, and 156hp/6800rpm, 142ftlb/4800rpm. While that may not sound like much, consider the fact that these cars weigh 18-1900lbs WITH a driver and a full tank of gas, with every single piece of interior as well. Best time I ever got was a 12.718 @ 104.1mph, with a 1.812 60' (on 26x6x15 slicks). If you're able to dump THAT much money into the engine, don't bother with any sort of forced induction. A 2332cc w/ 75 shot will give you a great deal of reliable power, with the 75-s for when you need some more. You can go all out and get a 2789cc from Autocraft, those suckers are badass. Or you can get the whopping 2840cc, which is good for 158mph with the proper tranny and aero-gear (front ends on Bugs literally lift off the ground at around 110-120 due to the body shape, it's essentially and upside down airplane wing). Just look into some of the larger-displacement engines and don't worry about the turbo.

Do the VW guys use alot of the Porsche parts like the later model fans, pulleys, etc.?

Do they ever do flat-6 swaps similar to the 914-6 with full 911 running gear?

I'd think a varioram 3.6 would cause insane-o power to weight ratio! It'd nuke the tires from anything above 2k lol.

Also do the bugs typically run factory ballast in the front or does anyone ever add it?

[Toastr]

but whats the biggest displacement you can go before having to worry about daily driveablility? i heard 2110cc...
Biggest I would run is the 2110, although there are quite a few people I know running 2332's and 2180's. Stay far, FAR away from the 1835cc's, the cylinder walls are a bit thin and they tend to have heat issues. I would personally recommend a 2017, but 2110's have a bit more parts due to popularity.

Do the VW guys use alot of the Porsche parts like the later model fans, pulleys, etc.?

Do they ever do flat-6 swaps similar to the 914-6 with full 911 running gear?

I'd think a varioram 3.6 would cause insane-o power to weight ratio! It'd nuke the tires from anything above 2k lol.

Also do the bugs typically run factory ballast in the front or does anyone ever add it?
Factory ballast consists of the gas tank and front tires... heh. Not really much need in adding any more weight up front, just get some drop-spindles and an adjustable front-beam. That way you can get a tasteful raked appearance, but it will also help keep the nose down at higher speeds. A small chin spoiler is available from certain companies as well. There's a German-look Bug in one of my HotVW mags that has a 2840cc and Berg 5spd... runs 12's at the track and has been clocked at 158mph on the Autobahn :rock:, all with the drop spindles and adjustable beam. The Porsche-esque cooling shrouds that are available now are based off the 911 shroud, but re-worked to fit the Bug engine bay without any clearance and relocating issues. Keep in mind that you'll have to run dual carb's with the 911 (also known as 11-blade) fan. There have been a few 944 and older 911 swaps, but due to the space issue I have yet to see a flat-6. Porsche trannys have been swapped, as have the brakes and some other components. Pullies won't work due to engine differences. Berg makes a 5-spd for the Bug with some awesome gearing and reverse lockout (will explain later), although it costs ~$2300... you get a hell of a return though. The flat-6 and Subaru boxer-4 engine swaps are more prominent in the Bus and Transporter scene. At a show last year there was a nice '71 Bus with a flat-6 swap and tranny, and it was running 13's all day long :rock:

*Reverse lock-out : anyone that owns a VW can vouch for the wooonderful reverse setup. (sarcasm!). All the way left, push down, more left, then pull back. In the newer cars it's easier, but in old Bugs it tends to hamper ripping through the gears. Reverse lockout replaces all that with a simple trigger. You pull the trigger up, move the stick full-left, then down. Much easier :thumb:

My recommended setup for motorvation in a Bug would be a 2110cc w/ 11-blade, dual 44mm Webers, and either a Rancho transaxle ProStreet w/ freeway flier gears, or the Berg tranny. With that combo you should be squarely in the 12's, low-low 13's
If you want to get crazy, get the 2738cc from Autocraft and slap a T52 on it. At 14lbs you'll be producing 525hp. Turn the boost to 45 and poof! 800hp. Have fun finding traction though :cool:

[VolksFaggin]

Show me another car that you can pull the engine, completely rebuild to performance specs, and re-install all in the same weekend - by yourself. Show me a car that you can pay $6k for, including the price of the car and engine, retain a complete interior, be fully street-legal and a reliable daily driver, all the while being capable of 11-12 sec 1/4's. Now show me a car that can do all of the above while getting 18-25mpg, and get the same attention and adoration wherever you go. Until someone proves me otherwise, I shall stand right by ya Volks... old school Bug's own all
:rock: :rock:

Your 100% correct. I have several ACVW nuts who run 11s with nothing more then 2k invested, including the price of the car.

[VolksFaggin]

I am personally talking to Mazdamax to see how much a 13b Wankel would cost, sence I located a GREAT deal on a belhousing adapter for it to bolt up to my bug trannie. Light weight, no need to turbo sence its already putting around 250 hp and I can keep my back hatch. :thumbs:

[Toastr]

Yeah, that swap is pretty getting to be pretty popular. I personally prefer the sound of a nice robust 2017cc exhaling through a stinger, and the ability to say "yes, it's all VW" :-D Lemme know how your swap goes though, I'd like to see and hear one in person :D If you really want to turbo it, you can move the firewall forwards so you have the luggage space available and mount the turbo there, I've seen it done on a few applications (such as the 2789cc Autocraft. Finally found the issue and it's a 2789, not 2738 and all that other stuff I kept saying... lol) and it seems to work nicely. Not sure about the spooling noise though, I imagine that'd get annoying real quick.

Oh, and it's thumb, not :thumbs: :thumb:

[slideshow240]

well i have always wanted a 2110cc in a bug anyways.....and for turbo you dont have to do anything but slap it on?

[Toastr]

well i have always wanted a 2110cc in a bug anyways.....and for turbo you dont have to do anything but slap it on?
Excerpt from an old VWTrends article on the subject:
For some, increasing the horsepower from their aircooled Volkswagen is a primary goal, post haste. It is all about going fast, and we'd be lying if that wasn't important to us as well. Hence this article. However, most of us have no interest in becoming engineers to support our hobby, and we are not a well-funded racing team bent on aspirations of designing a six-second drag car (at least most of us, that is). So, we choose other methods to get the speed we need.
When people in the VW industry consider modifying their car to achieve more power, they automatically turn to the carburetors and exhaust, the two easiest (and some times expensive) ways to upgrade the performance of any aircooled VW. Some of the hard-to-find 48 IDA that are popular to use on today's street performance engines can fetch upwards of $1000, and the continual trouble of adjusting them is a perpetual nuisance.
Next to rebuilding the bottom end with expensive cams, boring, cranks, stroking, pistons, porting, pushrods, cylinders and an endless variety of expensive parts designed to go fast, another alternative is turbocharging, a quick, efficient and effective way to at least double the power of the engine that is on your car right now. Yes, double. It is easy to install, cheaper than a high-performance engine, definitely easier to maintain and...hold onto your hats... requires very little modifications to your current engine.
Virtually all engines are capable of accepting a turbocharger. Though an in-line engine is ideal and presents the fewest problems in design and application of a turbo, a horizontally-opposed flat-four engine such as the aircooled VW engine is just as easy if the proper engineering has been accomplished, such with the Turbo City kit. Though this isn't without its drawbacks. Because of the nature of the aircooled engine, turbochargers in general will increase the head temperature of the engine, but Turbo City's kit is considered a mild turbo setup, creating an adjustable range of boost from seven to eleven psi. An aspect to consider before installing a turbo kit, is the transmission. Because turbos increase the amount of torque applied through the trans to the wheels, a Kennedy Stage Two clutch was installed to our project Beetle, but the transmission remained stock. A point of interest is that a higher octane fuel is recommended. With an engine compression ratio around eight to one (non turboed), 87-octane gas will suffice, and although they suggest that for every pound of boost added, the octane requirement should increase by one, it isn't necessary with this kit, as 91-octane is high enough.
Turbo City, in Orange, Calif., offers their Rapid Response Turbo kit for the Volkswagen Beetle, a system that utilizes a Garrett parallel-wall diffuser mated with a curved-inducer impeller in a centrifugal-type compressor. The draw-through-designed unit forces compressed air from a Weber 40mm DCOE carburetor into the engine (a 45mm carb can also be used). Troublesome turbo lag in this kit is eliminated thanks in part to the Volkswagen engine's naturally low compression rate, the direct mounting of the carburetor close to the compression housing and the specially designed header that redirects the exhaust fumes through the turbine wheel.
Turbo Troubleshooting

Symptom: Lack of Boost
Cause: Gasket leak or hole in exhaust system
Check: Block off tailpipe with engine running. If engine continues to run, there are leaks
Remedy: Repair the leaks, usually faulty gaskets

Symptom: Lack of Boost
Cause: Worn valves or rings
Check: Check compression
Remedy: Repair the faulty valves

Symptom: Lack of Boost
Cause: Butterfly doesn't completely open
Check: Check pressure in carburetor
Remedy: Adjust linkage

Symptom: Lack of Boost
Cause: Restriction in muffler
Check: Check turbine exhaust pressure
Remedy: Locate clog or remove baffles

Symptom: Lack of Boost
Cause: Dirty air cleaner
Check: Remove the air cleaner
Remedy: Clean or replace the air cleaner

Symptom: Gas odor during boost
Cause: Leak at compressor intake manifold
Check: Look for fuel stains around joints
Remedy: Tighten joints and replace gaskets

Symptom: Poor throttle response
Cause: Clog in carb
Check: Try richening jets
Remedy: Clean carb and check jet sizes

Symptom: Plugs miss at high power
Cause: Plug gap too large
Check: Measure gap
Remedy: Clean and reset to 0.025in. (or smaller if misfiring persists)

Symptom: Oil leak in turbine housing
Cause: Blocked oil drain
Check: Remove drain line and check for plugged or crimped line
Remedy: Clean and/or replace drain line and nipples

Symptom: Poor idling
Cause: Air leak between carb and compressor
Check: Listen for hissing around carb at idle
Remedy: Repair leak, usually faulty gasket

[slideshow240]

wtf?!?!?! a bolt on turbo kit for the beetle....awesome. what kind of power and how long of a process would that be to install?

[Toastr]

wtf?!?!?! a bolt on turbo kit for the beetle....awesome. what kind of power and how long of a process would that be to install?
There are a number of things that you'll need that are not included in the kit, mind you - Buggy-style throttle cable, an electric fuel pump, two No. 4 hose clamps and 3/8in. washers, an air filter and a set of deck lid spacers. Before you begin installing the Turbo City Rapid Response Turbo Kit, it is strongly recommend that you'll need to upgrade the clutch (I suggest the Kennedy Stage Two), as the increase in torque from the turbo will definitely cause the stock clutch to slip. I highly recommend you upgrade the ENTIRE transaxle, since the stock gears and such WILL die with abuse, I proved that with my stock 1600... check out Rancho Transaxles, and order their Type1 ProStreet. It cost me $670, including getting it shipped here from Cali. Takes 3 weeks from the order placement since they build to order and test each tranny before shipping.
Power-wise, a stock 1600cc makes 43.8hp with 65.7ft-lbs of torque at 4500rpms. The turbo will add ~88% of that, so with a turbo you'll get 82.6hp and 108.1ft.-lbs. of torque at only 4000rpm. The kit was running about $2100 the last time I checked.
With a slightly built 1600cc dp (dual port), such as dual 40-44mm carbs, pullies, Bosch alternator conversion, 1.25:1 rockers, heads, and a header you'll be sitting around 100hp or so with the turbo, and that's pretty damn good considering you just bolt on parts and some pipes.

[Toastr]

Here's a quick rundown of the procedure:
First off, disconnect the battery, as you will be working with the electrics and you don't want to fry anything. Shown here is the starting point. We removed the carburetor, air cleaner, intake manifold, rear engine tin, fuel pump, oil pressure sending unit (on the left side of the case) and the entire exhaust system (including the heater boxes if you don't want/need them).
The process begins with the outer reaches of the exhaust system, the J-tubes (if you are removing your heater boxes) and then the header. If you are retaining your heater boxes, make sure you have the supplied flanges welded to the heater box outlet. When you get the bolts and seals on for both pieces, just finger tighten them--you'll tighten all of the bolts towards the end of the assembly.
To achieve the proper timing, you'll have to modify the distributor slightly by reducing the ignition advance by approximately 10 degrees. After removing the cap and rotor, pull up the breaker plate and bend the weight stops one-half the distance of normal travel.
While the distributor cap is off, slide the Inlet Tee behind the generator stand and attach with the supplied hardware. Make sure the two vacuum line connection points are to the left of the generator stand. Tighten the clamps on the Inlet Tee pipe but leave the clamps on the end castings loose
Prepare the oil system by installing the fittings for the oil drain. The case plate fits in the original fuel pump location and uses the studs from the removed fuel pump. Since we are working with oil, make sure each connection point is fortified by using Teflon tape. The oil system is critical to the longevity of your engine, so make sure the fittings are tight.
At this time, it is a good idea to draw through the new throttle cable. Because we are working with a relocated carb, the cable needs to be able to reach it. Pull out the old cable from the pedal side, and remember to use a rag to catch any grease that comes with it. Feed in the new cable and secure it to the pedal. Let it hang to the side for now.
Now it is time for the main event, the fitting of the turbo unit and carburetor onto the intake tee. Make sure to use the supplied gaskets and bolts, but don't tighten it down just yet. Loosely attach the turbo housing to the Turbo Inlet Pipe, and don't forget to include the seal.
Once the turbo unit is in place, install the oil supply line from the brass T-fitting to the engine case in the oil pressure sending unit. The T-fitting allows for the sending unit and the wire to be located on the top of the T-fitting. The oil supply line attaches into the sending unit adapter. Make sure all threaded fittings are sealed with Teflon tape first.
Next, the oil drain hose needs to be connected up using the two supplied hose clamps. It fits on the brass attachment plug on the base of the turbo housing and drops down to the drain back case plate in the original fuel pump location. The hose will need to be cut, but measure twice and cut once. It is important that each fitting is tight, as a loss of oil can adversely affect any engine.
To create a vacuum line for the Wastegate, one of the nipples on the Inlet Tee is connected by a rubber vacuum line and is sealed with hose clamps. The remaining nipple can easily be used for a boost gauge, but since we are only running seven pounds, we didn't feel it necessary. With the hoses and supply lines out of the way, we can attach the Turbo Outlet Pipe and the Exhaust Outlet Pipe. Before doing so, make sure the turbo wheel in the turbo housing spins freely with a push of your finger. Don't yet tighten down the bolts at this time.
The tightening sequence. To make sure all air leaks are controlled, it is a good idea to start the tightening process in two places. Begin by tightening the Inlet Tee at the base of the Compression Housing, then the two hose clamps that connect it to the end castings. Next, tighten the J-tubes (or heater boxes) and header. Next do the Turbo Outlet Pipe and Exhaust Outlet Pipe, and the final bolts to tighten connect the Turbo Inlet Pipe to the bottom of the Turbo Housing.
After removing the stock throttle cable stock tube that runs through the fan shroud, slide the 18inch-long 3/8in. copper tube over the installed buggy throttle cable and run it through the shroud. Place a washer on either side of the shroud and a hose clamp to hold it into place. Next you'll have to bend the tube so it curves up to meet the carburetor throttle linkage. Make sure there are no kinks that the cable could get snagged on before you attach it to the linkage and the carb.
One of the last things to do before we take it for a start the motor is to attach an air filter to keep the incoming air free of debris. As well, the electronic fuel pump needs to be hooked up into the fuel system (and the line to the carb) and powered by the closest hot wire--we chose the choke wire because it is always on with the key, but your setup may be different.
The final setup. There are three things to do before you can turn the engine over. One is to go over this story again and check to make sure you did everything. Second is to make sure that all of the components have been tightened sufficiently. Third is to disconnect the distributor, disconnect the oil drain hose and turn the car over a few times to make sure oil is being pumped into through the turbo (get a bucket to catch the oil that comes through).
You're done. Turn the car over and let is sit at 3000rpms just long enough for everything to get hot. Shut it down and go over each bolt again to retighten them. Since burns of this degree take a while to heal, be careful. Some adjustment of the carb may be necessary, and your overall timing should be set to approximately 25 degrees.

[slideshow240]

how much power does the 2110cc make out of the box?

[Toastr]

how much power does the 2110cc make out of the box?
Depends entirely on your application, your carb's, you exhaust, all that stuff. Expect somewhere in the range of 180-200rwhp. Which is MORE than enough to get you into low 12's. You really and truly do NOT need a turbo on a large engine. If budget is an issue, I suggest retaining the 1600cc or maybe upgrading to a 1641 (upgraded from the 1600 by adding 87mm jugs and pistons), adding dual carbs, pullies, 1.25:1 rockers, and a header THEN turbo it. That should stick you around $2500-3700, depending on the condition of the motor and where you get your parts. A 2110cc turnkey would run you around, oh... $4100 or so. There's a guy in Hitchcock that I bought my Bug from, his name is George Karacostas and he's been building VW's for over 30 years... he's the only person I trusted with my toy. Check out www.thesamba.com for parts and motors and such, and also recommend checking out these forums (http://motorworks-vw.atinfopop.com/4/OpenTopic?a=cfrm&s=5874093131) Between George and the forums, you'll find out anything you could possibly want to know.

[Zoos]

You might also want to check over at Jake Raby's site http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/ Those engines are awasome, but very expensive. I would love to have a raby engine. 2332. joygastic.

If you want to go for more power, you might consider moving to a Type 4 pancake style engine. they are not as perddy as the Type ones, but have are considered the peak of Volkswagens engine Technology, aircooled wise. Also if you insist on going any higher than a 2332, than I would seriously consider turning over to a Rancho tranny or a later Bus model. Something about the Bus ones, i think they are made heavier than the others, or something.

Oh yeah if you insist on getting a crate turn key, DO NOT go to GEX, just dont do it. turn around and walk away. They are mass produced and are generally not very well put together. I would rather put one together myslef than use a GEX engine. Although with my record it might be better to get someone else to build me one that trusting myself. I killed my Supers engine 4 times last year, or was it 3. i think it was three. Stupid old parts.

[Toastr]

Oh yeah if you insist on getting a crate turn key, DO NOT go to GEX, just dont do it. turn around and walk away. They are mass produced and are generally not very well put together. I would rather put one together myslef than use a GEX engine...

:wrd: For the love of God do NOT get GEX, what a waste..

[VolksFaggin]

but whats the biggest displacement you can go before having to worry about daily driveablility? i heard 2110cc...


2332cc but its good to pull the valve covers every 3k miles and give the valves a adjustment to keep it in good running order. The motors, when that large, tend to shake themselves to peices.

[VolksFaggin]

Depends entirely on your application, your carb's, you exhaust, all that stuff. Expect somewhere in the range of 180-200rwhp. Which is MORE than enough to get you into low 12's. You really and truly do NOT need a turbo on a large engine. If budget is an issue, I suggest retaining the 1600cc or maybe upgrading to a 1641 (upgraded from the 1600 by adding 87mm jugs and pistons), adding dual carbs, pullies, 1.25:1 rockers, and a header THEN turbo it. That should stick you around $2500-3700, depending on the condition of the motor and where you get your parts. A 2110cc turnkey would run you around, oh... $4100 or so. There's a guy in Hitchcock that I bought my Bug from, his name is George Karacostas and he's been building VW's for over 30 years... he's the only person I trusted with my toy. Check out www.thesamba.com for parts and motors and such, and also recommend checking out these forums (http://motorworks-vw.atinfopop.com/4/OpenTopic?a=cfrm&s=5874093131) Between George and the forums, you'll find out anything you could possibly want to know.


You seem to know a good amount, but I would like to interject here for a sec sence a couple things you stated wouldn't be the best ave for people to take.

1) 1600-1641cc turboed will do 13s, just for future info.

2) Power pullies are a :yeahno: with ACVW. They tend to cause the car to run a lil more power, but causes it to run MUCH hotter.

thats about it. Everything else you have said up untill now is dead on the money, and I am glad someone else on here is a vw nut! lol

[VolksFaggin]

Yeah, that swap is pretty getting to be pretty popular. I personally prefer the sound of a nice robust 2017cc exhaling through a stinger, and the ability to say "yes, it's all VW" :-D Lemme know how your swap goes though, I'd like to see and hear one in person :D If you really want to turbo it, you can move the firewall forwards so you have the luggage space available and mount the turbo there, I've seen it done on a few applications (such as the 2789cc Autocraft. Finally found the issue and it's a 2789, not 2738 and all that other stuff I kept saying... lol) and it seems to work nicely. Not sure about the spooling noise though, I imagine that'd get annoying real quick.

Oh, and it's thumb, not :thumbs: :thumb:


Yeah, I will keep you informed on the swap, which is probley going to be late summer before its completely finished sence I am now stuck with manisum case from brazil in the mail heading to me.

This is my setup so far

44x30.55
94mm pistons
Scat c35 Cam (I know, I am swapping a hotcam 120 in soon)
Stock Casting on the case.
T3/T04e .57 intake trim
Boosh 009 distrubtor
Holly 2 barrel side draft.

LOL I need a fuel pump and hoses and I am set. :( Its taken me almost a full year to just get to this point. I hate being poor lol.

The Mag. Case I am going to build is a 2332cc but I might put the 16g on it sence I doubt I will have transaxle to support that motor and a turbo anything larger then that.

[Toastr]

You seem to know a good amount, but I would like to interject here for a sec sence a couple things you stated wouldn't be the best ave for people to take.

1) 1600-1641cc turboed will do 13s, just for future info.

2) Power pullies are a :yeahno: with ACVW. They tend to cause the car to run a lil more power, but causes it to run MUCH hotter.

thats about it. Everything else you have said up untill now is dead on the money, and I am glad someone else on here is a vw nut! lol
Yeah I know the turbo applications will turn in 13's, I was responding to his question about the 2110 (just didn't quote him). Didn't mean power-pullies either, I just got a set of polished aluminum ones with the degress inscribed on them :thumb:

[VolksFaggin]

Ahhhh yeah, EMPI has a really classy mat black one (Pully) with laser incribed numbers that I was able to get at a swap meet not to long ago for cheap. :)

BTW, there is a HUGE Swap meet coming up soon in H-Town, Check www.thesamba.com for the date, but its like Feb 23 and there is 2,000 open selling booths!

Yeah I figured you did know the times it would run, I think I was more confused then anything else. I shouldn't smoke while posting on topics.

And for anybody who would like other turbo kit ideas for bugs,

www.lowbugget.com
and
http://carcraftinc.com/parts.htm

are the 2 places where you can either get a whole kit, or peice together one, though thier webpage on the 2nd one is kinda messy.


BTW, cool Scion, could you put a bed in the back of it? How much can it pull?

[Toastr]

What size bed? I carried my single mattress and frame home in it, although now I'd have to yank the sub to carry a ton of stuff. Max cargo weight is 900lbs, can't pull jack crap because there's no hitch, nor a location to mount one :rofl:

[VolksFaggin]

Dang, I wanted to put a bed in the back of one, slap on a tow hitch and pull my bug around the US for a couple months and go to ever VW meet I can for vacation. I guess a 56 Caddie and bag it and rip the back seat/trunk up and build a bed in there. LOL

Maybe something like this, notice the name btw.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00067F1CE/002-9259906-1946438?v=glance&s=miscellaneous&n=507846&me=A1K6WA0VRJP9VZ&vi=pictures&img=4#more-pictures

[Toastr]

Bah, go all the way old skool ACVW and get a Westy, dump it, 1776cc, THEN pull your Bug around :rock:

[VolksFaggin]

Bah, go all the way old skool ACVW and get a Westy, dump it, 1776cc, THEN pull your Bug around :rock:


LOL thats a great idea, but I have personally scene one of those fall over due to heavy wind LOL. It was on the highway and it and its trailor just kinda... tumped over. :\ lol

I have a stock 1300cc 36 hp motor I was going to use to pull my bug and a trailor I am making out of a back end of another bug, and just put the big motor on the transmission of the trailor and pull with the 36 hp motor and just swap when I get to race but the 1300 cc is kinda smoking some so I think I am going to trash it sence its a single port.

If you know anybody that has a Samba or a transporter in houston, if you dont mind sending me a PM, it would be apprecated sence I am leery about buying cars over the net without being able to see it first.

[Zoos]

Oh sure now you people tell me these things tip over. Thanks for the late warning. I just got a 75 Westy to take on a road trip. She needs minor interior work, and some exterior work, and some.....lets just say he needs work.

[VolksFaggin]

Sweet man, I would get one in a heart beat but I like the lil bus/truck transporters a lil more.

[Tbone16]

Bah, go all the way old skool ACVW and get a Westy, dump it, 1776cc, THEN pull your Bug around :rock:
I told you dump was a badass word. This thread is badass, finally ACVWs get there spot in the limelight. Good posts on performance motors. Personally, i think the lowbugget turbo is the best, and for swaps, the ej20/22 is king (with a 944 gear box of coarse), but the 12a rotory is very apealing to me as a daily driver. There is a guy in my volkswagon club that is redoing a bug with an ej20 swap and it is badass. I think the one thing we overlooked were type IV motors........

[orange02SS]

We are picking up a 69 bug in great shape. Should be a fun project at the shop!

[Zoos]

Type 4's have only in the past few years really begun to become popular. I mean yeah just check out the Raby Site I posted above. It really is amazing the numbers they are pulling with those engines.

[VolksFaggin]

What are some ACVW clubs in houston?

[Tbone16]

Houston Volkswagen Club (hvwc.net) and Houston Aircoolers (aircoolers.org)

[Toastr]

Don't forget the Bay Area VW club :rock:

[slideshow240]

damnit now i want a bug....but i WILL put a 2110cc in it and just drive it.

[VolksFaggin]

2110 will put 165-180 converatively depending on carbs and exhaust. Do a 2332cc which will put it right around 200-210 hp which is ALOT in that lil car.

I have a right hand drive Karma Gia for sale, for 200 dollars and a 65 bug for 300 dollars and uh... yeah thats about the only 2 WHOLE cars I have right now thats I am not using.

[jdude]

I'm part of the aircoolers and the hvwc :thumb:

[Zoos]

yeah Im from Michigan, so i know of no clubs in your area, but you could check the Vintage Volkswagen Club of America, Im sure there is a chapter in your area. Also check thesamba.com, I think they have a list of clubs.

[slideshow240]

but isnt a 2332cc too big for the streets....as in not streetable due to the engine being so big that the cylinder walls are too thin and you burn up the motor?

[VolksFaggin]

I have about 5 friends with 2332's and they do well. They all have a external oil coolier which might help a bit more. I am not sure but all they tell me is they have to tighten the heads down and they adjust the valves every 3000 miles. Other then that, nothing out of the norm.

[slideshow240]

how much is it for a 2332cc turnkey motor? and where to get one?

[Toastr]

but isnt a 2332cc too big for the streets....as in not streetable due to the engine being so big that the cylinder walls are too thin and you burn up the motor?
Only if gas mileage is a concern. As soon as you dual any engine you, your mpg will plummet. Mine did on my 1600 when I installed the dual 40's, since I more than doubled the intake size from the stock single 34mm carb. The 1835 is the only engine I'm aware of that runs into heat issues due to thin walls, the 2332's have I believe a thicker case to avoid getting to thin. Check geneberg.com and send away for his tech articles if you want some more in-depth info on it. You can't really get to big of an engine in a Bug for street-use, it depends on how it's built and tuned, the components, and most of all how you drive it. An external oil-system will help quite a bit with heat issues, too. I've got a friend that runs one of the Autocraft 2789cc's on the street every day, and another 9 that drive engines in the 2110 and above range, and they do just fine. However, they all have proper setups and have paid attention to all the other components. Don't go and drop a bigger engine into your car without upgrading the transmission and traction components, and pay some attention to the brakes. If you can get going fast enough with a stock 1300cc to lock-up the brakes on a dry day, you're sure as hell going to end up doing the same with a mod-motor.

**edit: For an expertly built 2332, with all the top goodies and that good stuff expect to pay between $4900-7000. If you want to order a turnkey motor, I highly recommend Quality German Auto. I've heard nothing but praise from people running motors from them, and all of their engines are very well built.

[Knight]

If you want to find and fix an old school bug go for it. Whatever your heart desires man. The first car you like will always stay with you. The first car that really stood out to me as a kid was a Supra. Follow your dream!!! lol

[Zoos]

Like what toaster said, there isnt an engine big enough to not street drive in a Bug, it just is how you drive it. There was a guy in VWtrends that had a 1966 Bus not that long ago that dropped a Porsche 996 (yeah no joke) in it, and drove it daily, AND it was actually his wifes car. That was a sexxy Bus. I would go with either a 2110 or a 2332. Those are my favs besides going to a 3.2 ltr Porsche in the Westy, but that wont happen for a very long time, cause now I am outta money and blah blah blah. If you get something that big, then I would not get a turbo for it, cause you wont need it. By the way, what year Beetle you looking for? 50-53 Split (I know I want one too, but come on) 53-57 Oval (thats a little more realistic) 58-67 Square Window? Or a 68+. My first was a 1972 Super Beetle, and now I am trying to do a complete resto-custom on her. Yeah I dont make 6.00 at the local market, not the sarcasm. Tell us what you would like, and maybe we can find something.

[Tbone16]

A vw is a totally atainable vehicle. I would stop sweating it and buy one. But the tranny thing is a big issue, the stock beetle tranny was only meant to be turned with between 40 and 60 hp. Good solid ranchos and such are not that much and will make a huge diffrence in everything.

[slideshow240]

well i wnt a 58-66 only...dont know why i stop it at 66 instead of 67.i just dont like the number 67 i guess. if and when i get one its going to be refurbished first and then motor (if the one in it runs good and long enough)

[ultraman713]

I am in love w/them, AND DO OWN ONE in very clean shape, viper red, '72 beetle.

Unfortunately given some of my current situations w/school and all, mine's for sale for dirt-cheap if anyone's interested :-/ PM me if you'd like. Yall have a good night :rock:

[NismoFreakS14]

Factory ballast consists of the gas tank and front tires... heh. Not really much need in adding any more weight up front, just get some drop-spindles and an adjustable front-beam. That way you can get a tasteful raked appearance, but it will also help keep the nose down at higher speeds. A small chin spoiler is available from certain companies as well. There's a German-look Bug in one of my HotVW mags that has a 2840cc and Berg 5spd... runs 12's at the track and has been clocked at 158mph on the Autobahn :rock:, all with the drop spindles and adjustable beam. The Porsche-esque cooling shrouds that are available now are based off the 911 shroud, but re-worked to fit the Bug engine bay without any clearance and relocating issues. Keep in mind that you'll have to run dual carb's with the 911 (also known as 11-blade) fan. There have been a few 944 and older 911 swaps, but due to the space issue I have yet to see a flat-6. Porsche trannys have been swapped, as have the brakes and some other components. Pullies won't work due to engine differences. Berg makes a 5-spd for the Bug with some awesome gearing and reverse lockout (will explain later), although it costs ~$2300... you get a hell of a return though. The flat-6 and Subaru boxer-4 engine swaps are more prominent in the Bus and Transporter scene. At a show last year there was a nice '71 Bus with a flat-6 swap and tranny, and it was running 13's all day long :rock:


Were you meaning to say 914 instead of 944?

[Toastr]

Aaah, yes... typo; thanks for the catch :hs: I did indeed mean the 914.

[VolksFaggin]

well i wnt a 58-66 only...dont know why i stop it at 66 instead of 67.i just dont like the number 67 i guess. if and when i get one its going to be refurbished first and then motor (if the one in it runs good and long enough)


67 had some issues with starters and a few other things including suspention if I remeber correctly.

68 had the issues solved and also all 68s came 12 volts, so you dont have to convert.

[slideshow240]

well i dont like the number 67 for some rreason and 68 they came with 4 x 205 bolt pattern...i prefer 5 x 205

[Toastr]

All four-lugs have been 4x130, including the '68. One reason some people shy from the '68s is that's the year VW did some funky changes for that year only... up till then parts are basically the same, and after 69 they're basically the same too... '68 has some unique parts, one of them I believe is the Z-bar something or other...

[slideshow240]

welli plan on fixing up the 240 and getting a bike and then seel the 240 to get a bug.

[Toastr]

You should keep the 240 and use the money on the Bug instead... there are some INSANE deals on TheSamba right now, project and completed cars going for very good prices. Check 'em out.

[slideshow240]

i havent been on thesamba in a while...not since i bought the 240.

[Toastr]

Go check it, there's one guy that's selling all his cars (few completed, most projects but come with all parts needed to finish the job) for dirt cheap - incoming baby sale. He's got a lovely '73 Standard that needs only ball-joints, selling for $2k obo. Only thing I don't like are the massive elephant's feet tailights, but those are easily removed by swapping to earlier model fenders :thumb:

[slideshow240]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=138418


nice project minus the rust...

[Toastr]

Eeeh... looks like the front quarters were replaced, the welds are fresher than the surrounding ones, plus they didn't do that great of a job since there's some surface rust emerging. Also a SP,... I'd keep looking unless you're planning to do a complete pan-off resto and replace the pans. Not that difficult or expensive, just time consuming.

[slideshow240]

i basically want something that already has a good body and pans then i will go from there.

[Toastr]

I'll poke around and see what I can turn up :thumb: Pre-67?

[slideshow240]

yes

[Toastr]

Aight, I'll do some digging and PM ya with some findings in a few days... price range? Oh, and you'll have to do some work on whatever you get, it's a given.

[slideshow240]

i know....price i dont know. im ganna wait to sell the 240

[Tbone16]

Badass 56. Little expensive. http://www.aircoolers.org/forums/showthread.php?t=628

[slideshow240]

looks good but not the sun roof convertion

[Toastr]

not that hard to graft in a new section of roof.... that or just completely swap it for a ragtop :D

[turbohead]

yeah ragtops are better :thumb:

[VolksFaggin]

www.busselecta.com

[turbohead]

www.busselecta.com
i have that downloaded into my computer

[Tbone16]

not that hard to graft in a new section of roof.... that or just completely swap it for a ragtop :D
Swap an oval window for a rag top? dont let the vw purists hear that talk, they would burn you at the stake.

[Toastr]

No, lol... I was responding to the comment about not liking the sunroof graft...

[VolksFaggin]

LOL well I did it. Instead of getting my carb/piping for my big turbo kit, i went and bought a 59 Ghia. I dont know what I was thinking. lol Red/black convertable.

[Toastr]

LOL well I did it. Instead of getting my carb/piping for my big turbo kit, i went and bought a 59 Ghia. I dont know what I was thinking. lol Red/black convertable.
Pics? Nice done Ghia's are beautiful... especially if painted a gloss black exterior with red interior :eekbunny: Congrats on the acquisition! You have saved another ACVW from extinction :rock:

[Tbone16]

Holy SHIT A 59! How bout you give me the grills on your fresh air ducts. They realy look like shit, and mine is going nowere fast.

[VolksFaggin]

LOL its pink primer right now. I am going to bag it and remove the convertable top. Its going to be a garage queen/ nice day driver. I am going with a green with some wild tan and Platinum pinstriping. Camel colored leather is the inside. Not sure yet, it needs new pans bad.

PICS TO COME!

[Tbone16]

Dont buy airkewled bags. That guy is a duesche, he used to post on the volksrodders. The only way to do bags right is Kustom Coach werks, home of colardos lowest cars. You know how to weld?

[VolksFaggin]

Thanks for the heads up but I am going to try to tackle it on my own. I know how to weld, now I just need to head on down to Habor Freight and get all the tools I need.

KCW makes some amazing cars btw.

[Zoos]

Nice, I always liked the Ghia's, but I would prefer a 68-70. I dont know why, that just seems like a good coupla years for me. Not old enough to make a really bad mistake, and get yelled at by true-aficinados, but not not new enough to have the differant fenders lights. I always liked the two-tone red w/black top. And i want a coupe. Not that big on convertibles. But I got a Westy instead. So I am just gonna have to get some of mine running and get one or more sold, then i can get a Ghia.

[Toastr]

KCW makes some amazing cars btw.
Hell yes they do :rock: I saw an awesome cherry-red crew-cab Transporter on 'bags and Fusch's.... absolutely gorgeous.
And I think this is one of the longest threads I've seen in CarTalk... just another way to prove ACVW's own > * :thumb:

[Tbone16]

Hell yes, a harbour frieght fan. I was friggin jazed when I drove by the Harbor frieght in college station yesterday. I was down there for a competition but hopefully I will be going to school there next year (mech. engineering major). I wouldnt recomend getting a cheapo mig from harbour frieght, i think the best way to go as far as cheap migs the est way to go is the hobart for like 500. The cheapo tig stick combo for 200 has my attention though, i need to se if those things work. Props FOR DOING IT YOURSELF!

[Zoos]

Hell yes they do :rock: I saw an awesome cherry-red crew-cab Transporter on 'bags and Fusch's.... absolutely gorgeous.
And I think this is one of the longest threads I've seen in CarTalk... just another way to prove ACVW's own > * :thumb:

Actually its spelled Fuch's, not Fusch's. I know that cause I got a set. :thumb: Anyone wanna buy em? PM me an offer.


edit: Are there any Harbor Freights up here? Or is it a lower states only thing? Also, what exactly is Harbor Freight?

[Tbone16]

Harbour frieght is a magazine that has stores in certain areas (I think all over) were you can find any tool you want, excapt half the price and 1/4 of the quality. It realy is a great place to get almost anything. You can order online or through the magazine, but the shipping is slow and expensive.

[slideshow240]

i vote archive because this has been a very informative thread.

[Toastr]

i vote archive because this has been a very informative thread.
:wrd: and second the motion :thumb:

[Tbone16]

:wrd: and second the motion :thumb:
and a third.

[Zoos]

I fourth that motion!!

[VolksFaggin]

I uh... yeah... me 5! lol

[Toastr]

Lol. Quick! Someone ask another question about air-cooleds so we can keep the thread going :thumb:

Oh, I've got one: Does the '68 body mate realitively easily to a '66 pan?

[VolksFaggin]

Lol. Quick! Someone ask another question about air-cooleds so we can keep the thread going :thumb:

Oh, I've got one: Does the '68 body mate realitively easily to a '66 pan?


Yes but the brakes are different so I dont know about the hoses.


Has anybody seen the back window pop outs that replace the glass with like metal and it has a oval window inside of it, and it pops out.

Here is a picture.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/191109.jpg

[Zoos]

Ive never seen that, But I want one. Its kinda like a reverse Safari window. Betcha it's custom made.

[Toastr]

Eeh... doesn't exactly speak to me, I wouldn't feel left out if I left mine the way it is. The gap and lines around the window would look a bit out of place IMO. Still, great mod :thumb:

[Tbone16]

Coo idea, but still just an oval wanna be. As for the pan, it oughta work just fine. I cant think of anything that could interfere. On a good note, I almost finished my ghias front suspension and am closing in on the motor. AHH, good question here: "on the DP heads, in between the casting and head, how many gaskets is there?"

[VolksFaggin]

LOL I dont know how many gaskets, I think the last time I went to go replace them, i didnt have any and just used RTV seelent. I would assume 2 or 1 thick ass one.

[VolksFaggin]

Has anybody ever stuck a tiny sub in the back of the back of the back of a bug? like in that lil cubby hole place? Hows the sound with the transmission being right under it?

[Toastr]

Yep, I had two 10's back there in a custom box, sounded great. I had them aimed up, firing off the rear window and they hit hard enough to have people staring at my car in disbelief. Good stuff... some peeps don't realize what our little VeeDubs are capable of :rock:

[VolksFaggin]

Yeah I figured I could possibly have 1 8 but you give me hope! lol Where did you mount the amps?

[Toastr]

Yeah I figured I could possibly have 1 8 but you give me hope! lol Where did you mount the amps?
Single amp, 'floating' setup from the headliner :thumb:

[Tbone16]

So 1 metal gasket and liquid gasket (what im getting at is if there are any paper gaskets)? anyways, Im sure you could fit enough bass in a a beetle to raddle ones brain. Alot of featured cars in vw trends have systems like that.

[Toastr]

Like the insane orange Super that had the 6 12's... muahaha.

Next question : List your favorite model and what you would do to it. Assume the car is in worn/used, but still good condition. Budget : $4k for mods, car excluded.

'68 Standard Type1 : avis adjusters w/ 2" drop spindles front, 1" rear, Empi 8-spokes (chrome), shave, dechromed. 1776cc (dual 40's) w/ Prostreet and stinger (gotta have the stinger!), disc brake conversion.

[Tbone16]

Fenderless splitty with ford front axle conversion. Take 4-6 inches out of the roof, craiger 5 lugs with cheater slicks on white walls. Auburn dash conversion with a ford bench seat, and finish off the interior with some moon accesories. Roll any loud motor outback. Lots of work, not much cash, sure to make people look, sure to make people mad, sure to make people say "whut the hell?" Basically just a cheap volksrod (other than the fact than its a splitty, but I gues even I would molest a true splitty, so make it a splitty conversion).

[Zoos]

If I had to say any model, and oh its a hard choice...actually to hard, so Ill just tell ya what the plan is for my 72 Super ok. Ima sure I could do it with 4K.

First off, I am gonna drop the front with Topline Parts maXX Strut system, allowing the use of Porsche 911 Turbo Twists on all four corners.

For exterior Mods, Im going GL, or for you non VW peeps, German Look. Bring the bumpers in to almost touch the fenders, using the Mexi-style bumpers that have the blinkers in them. All accent pieces (Chrome pieces will be painted Black, or Body color, Prolly Body color.) Then I want to take the fenders off, which had already happened, and get Fiberglass 1.5inch wider fronts, whilst using 2.5" in the back. Kinda have that 911 widebody look going on.

Then I will be replacing the stock interior door panels with custom Black and Orange ones, maybe jsut a strip of Orange running down the middle of them. The seats will be replaced with Recaro racing seats (Orange and Black) Backseat will stay the same, or just might dissaper. Carpet will be yanked, New Floor pans will be put in and painted Black, and nothing will be left on the floor, just show off that nice shiney black floor. Headliner will be taken also, and replaced with a piece of Carbon Fibre (I saw that in VWTrends, said it deafened the road noise.

Engine wise, hafta go with a 1776 (Prolly now getting to money shortage) or try to find an Ebay Porsche flat 6 (I know they made them cause a friend had one in his Baja, and it was FAST) Tranny wise, look for a Porsche 5 speed.
Now to the Paint. This you will have to see. I am getting the paint on my car to match the paint the car my Clubs founder came up with for the site. Here have a look.


http://img97.exs.cx/img97/9792/glva20logo20rev18vc.jpg

[VolksFaggin]

My setup I would build would a 1968.

I would do a Dark blue with a white stripe just above the chrome trim to the back fenders. I would do widen fenders in the back with a 3 inch notch front with spindles. I would do a full trans mount setup with wheelies bars. I would have a set of 245 mikies in the back.I would do a gold Empi 5 spokes with a polished lip.

I would do a 2332cc with a Holly side draft 48 with a t4 hybrid. Nice set of heads on it.

[Tbone16]

A traditional bug, a rod, a sports bug, and straight up muscle beetle, I think we are hitting all the bases.

[slideshow240]

i would have the socal bug i guess...too tired to post all the shit i would want.

[Zoos]

My setup I would build would a 1968.

I would do a Dark blue with a white stripe just above the chrome trim to the back fenders. I would do widen fenders in the back with a 3 inch notch front with spindles. I would do a full trans mount setup with wheelies bars. I would have a set of 245 mikies in the back.I would do a gold Empi 5 spokes with a polished lip.

I would do a 2332cc with a Holly side draft 48 with a t4 hybrid. Nice set of heads on it.


Just a quick Question, How are you gonna put EMPI 5's on a 1968 4 lug Bolt Pattern? Unless you redrill the drums, or go for discs, They won't fit.

[VolksFaggin]

Just a quick Question, How are you gonna put EMPI 5's on a 1968 4 lug Bolt Pattern? Unless you redrill the drums, or go for discs, They won't fit.



I ment to add disc brakes.[asian voice] You are wise in your ways vw grasshopper,[/asian voice] becuase I totally forgot about that lol.

[Zoos]

No biggie, just when you have a 2 hour snow delay, you can read over stuff. Now I have a question about my new Type 4 powered Westy. Do you hafta check/change the gap on the valves like you do in the Type 1? And what do you set it to? 6mm? I think thats what I set the Supers to.

[VolksFaggin]

I will call and ask, because I personally am not sure. I wouldn't assume so, but I wouldn't run anything past VW ;)

[Toastr]

Consult your Bug Bible (How To Keep... blahblahblah), should be in there some place.

[slideshow240]

Archive...live forever VW spirit that dwells here in this very thread in this vast ricer land of houston-imports.com!

how hard is it to get a type 4 in a type 1.....bug right?

[VolksFaggin]

Type 4 in type one. I think other then a different throw out bearing, it should fit with some cussin and cut fingers. ;)

[Toastr]

Type4 in Type1... time-consuming, but not that difficult... http://www.massivetype4.com/tech/main.shtml

[vwfan4life]

Matt: I don't see why a 68 body and a 66 pan wouldn't mate fine. Might wanna run it past some of the guys on the Motorworks Forum; they'd know better than me.

Yes, i am in love with old VW's; i live, sleep, eat, and breath air-suckers; i used to own a 1968 Bug (got totalled in December), and i right now have a 1966 Bug in storage until better weather hits (like zoos, i'm on the east coast, and freezing my ass off :thumb: ).

[slideshow240]

you always come through....archive!!!:thumb:

[VolksFaggin]

Oh holy shit, I didn't know we had a 4k budget. hold on, I think I need to ghetto this up some.

Nix the wheels.

1968 Type 1 in OK condititon. = 1k
Built 2332 long block (with atleast 44 x 35.5 heads) = 2500
48 Webbers = 600 used
Rancho transaxle = 600
Go to TWS and get free slicks

4 grand including the car and you can atleast pull off low 12 sec runs all day long for under 4k. use the other 250 dollars to get some nice chrome accents ;) Sorry, I didn't read the budget lol.

[Toastr]

Oh holy shit, I didn't know we had a 4k budget. hold on, I think I need to ghetto this up some.

Nix the wheels.

1968 Type 1 in OK condititon. = 1k
Built 2332 long block (with atleast 44 x 35.5 heads) = 2500
48 Webbers = 600 used
Rancho transaxle = 600
Go to TWS and get free slicks

4 grand including the car and you can atleast pull off low 12 sec runs all day long for under 4k. use the other 250 dollars to get some nice chrome accents ;) Sorry, I didn't read the budget lol.
Actually its 4 grand EXCLUDING the car, but your way works just as good :rock:

[Zoos]

volksdragon, you think mine is gonna make the 4K limit? I dont either, but lets say I hit the lotto eh?

To do a Type 4 to a Beetle you need to make some kind of shroud to use a fan. You can get a DTM one over on jake Raby's site, or you can run a Porsche style one, but Toastr said those where load and obnoxious. If you are serious about it, check out this site, http://www.aircooledtech.com/ then scroll down to the one labeled Type-4 Into A Type-1 / Early Type-2 that basically guides you through it.

[Zoos]

Consult your Bug Bible (How To Keep... blahblahblah), should be in there some place.


You mean my 'For Aircooled VW's Includes Hi*Performance*History*Suppliers*The Dread Auto-Trottel*Trouble,Trouble,Trouble How to Keep your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step by step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot By John Muir?

edit:I just realized they misspelled Complete. Check it out - http://images.amazon.com/images/P/1566913101.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg

[Tbone16]

I got a buddy in Liberty going type IV in his rod.

[VolksFaggin]

LOL everybody has that book. I ended up getting a clitons sence I am use to the way they write.

[Toastr]

Do you mean the Chilton's? I have that too... I think every ACVW owner has those two books since they provide enough information between the two of them for a complete newb to totally disassemble the entire car, modify it, and rebuild it. I love 'em, they've helped me through many a difficult and puzzling encounter :rock:

Next on the agenda : how about everyone post up their current ACVW(s) and a brief summary :thumb: I'll stick up mine as soon as I get outta class.

Oh, and good to see you finally making an appearance Ron :thumb:

[VolksFaggin]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/blueimpulse/bug01.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/blueimpulse/bug02.jpg



Dats my 68 with big fenders and my new motor :-D

[Zoos]

Hey nice looking 68. Those fenders are w-i-d-e

Here is a Pic of my new Westy named Tails:

http://img115.exs.cx/img115/2080/bus20076dz.jpg

Here is a Pic of the 72 b4 me wrecking havec:

http://img82.exs.cx/img82/4986/Bug1007.jpg

[VolksFaggin]

Yeah each fender is 6 inches wider then stock. Sweet ass westy, I wish I could find ANY bus under 1k without a hole in the roof.

[CBR_TOY]

yall should archive this shit.
there's more knowledge in this thread than the whole damn board

[Toastr]

yall should archive this shit.
there's more knowledge in this thread than the whole damn board
:D

On topic, old pics of the BBX (BlackBallXpress)
http://img221.exs.cx/img221/8002/frontshot4hp.jpg
http://img201.exs.cx/img201/2360/beachshot3dt.jpg

trust me, you don't want to see her as she in right now... :bawling:

[VolksFaggin]

ITS BECAUSE YOU LET SALT TOUCH HER!!! After the day at the beach, your bug desolved into nothing. lol

[Toastr]

Lies! First place I went after the beach was to the carwash and gave her a good scrubbing. Right now she's fenderless, apronless, trunklid-less, interior-less.... some woman cut me off a couple months ago in the wet on Hwy3. I slammed the brakes and swerved... having 70% of the weight in the BACK, pendulum effect kicked in and I went into the concrete divider wall. Chris was with me and he ended up slamming his head against the windshield :rofl: But yeah, she's naked, stripped, and violated sitting in my garage awaiting some more work :(

[VolksFaggin]

Any Idea on how long you have till shes back on the road?

[Toastr]

Never... at least not in my hands :bawling: I have neither the time nor the resources to restore her... she's already 5/9 the way parted out (hence the no-interior). Other stuff is still up for grabs though.... sigh. However I WILL own another ACVW, and it will be within a year. Once you get bitten, you are forever tied to the Bug :rock:

[slideshow240]

why is this not in archives yet...the best damn discussion on ACVW ever....ARCHIVE +1

[VolksFaggin]

What all parts do you have off of her? I might stop by when you have time and we can trade money for parts ;) PM if your intrested.

btw what is up with archiving? like make this topic a sticky?

[Tbone16]

Toastr, you dont know were I can get front caliper hardware do yah? I gues I should just try orielys. I bought calpiers off ebay and they came with no hardware (they are the single piston type).

[Toastr]

What all parts do you have off of her? I might stop by when you have time and we can trade money for parts PM if your intrested. btw what is up with archiving? like make this topic a sticky?
PM sent sir :thumb: And archiving is moving it to the archives, its a forum at the bottom of the main menu, where it shall be preserved forever :cool:

Toastr, you dont know were I can get front caliper hardware do yah? I gues I should just try orielys. I bought calpiers off ebay and they came with no hardware (they are the single piston type).
I'd recommend checking out BAP on Nasa1 and Walnut I believe, between Hwy3 and I45. If that doesn't work, call George Karacostas @ 409-986-9487. He lives in Hitchcock and he's the ONLY person around here that I would trust with my Bug. Over 30 years in building stockers - drag racers, all Types. :rock:

[Zoos]

You could try California Pacific, or one of those suppliers, Isnt it odd that California Pacific is in seattle.

[VolksFaggin]

Are any of yall planing to go to any of the VW shows this spring and summer time in houston? There are a couple in march alone, maybe some of us could meet up in our cars and hit some of the meets.

I am trying to find a defenitive list of the car show, so I will keep everybody posted who is intrested.

[Zoos]

I think I might be down there, maybe if all things go right, Right Toastr?

[CBR_TOY]

yall should really archive this shit

[Toastr]

I think I might be down there, maybe if all things go right, Right Toastr?
Come on down homes, but I won't have a VeeDub :bawling:

[Zoos]

I do, and the Lights work, Oh and dont worry about a room, I gotsa bed in her already!!!

[Toastr]

I do, and the Lights work, Oh and dont worry about a room, I gotsa bed in her already!!!
Bah, rub it in why don't you :eh: We'll have to road trip somewhere... old and new school Box cruise :rock:

[VolksFaggin]

LOL you and that westy, I am ubër jelious. I need to wire my lights and well... everything up. nothing on my car works electronically except the motor. lol

[Zoos]

Mine didnt either till about 3 o'clock today, when I felt the urge to just start moving wires to diff. area, and magically it worked. That got the Turn Signals working, then I spent nearly another 2 hours trying to get the Brake Lights/Tail Lights working, and I finally just got new bulbs, then they worked, so now My Westy is all good-ish.

[Toastr]

Somebody say lights? You should have seen the setup I had on my Bug... H4 headlights, LED tails, custom red-neon VW symbol on the headliner for the domelight (3ft diameter), strobes in the engine bay that shone through the decklid vents, and red underbody lights to match the interior footwell ones and the seats. Much light :rock:

[Zoos]

And he wants to do that to Tails (my westy).............

[vwfan4life]

Don't nobody even think about snatching that tranny of his; i called dibs on it :-p

Toastr, you pretty much summed it up; once bitten by the Bug, you never get away :rock: :rock:

Though those pics make me miss Midnite even more (why!!! :bawling: ); especially after i violated her like i did today (IM me for the details, Toastr).

[Zoos]

Don't nobody even think about snatching that tranny of his; i called dibs on it :-p

Toastr, you pretty much summed it up; once bitten by the Bug, you never get away :rock: :rock:

Though those pics make me miss Midnite even more (why!!! :bawling: ); especially after i violated her like i did today (IM me for the details, Toastr).


You know VWFan, If i didnt know what you were talking about, that would sound really weird, but i do, and it makes my heart sink for you.

[Toastr]

It's never fun cutting apart your old toy... I feel for you homes :hs:

[Tbone16]

It's never fun cutting apart your old toy... I feel for you homes :hs:
WTF, cuttin stuff up rules. I take full andvantage of any opurtunity to break out with the sawz-all or cuttof wheel.

[Zoos]

Um not with Ron it isnt. See Midnight, his 68 Beetle, was totalled when a drunk driver slammed into her, Totalling her. It really broke him up.

[VolksFaggin]

Cut her in half, make 1 half a coutch, other half a trailor

[Toastr]

LOL. Actually the damage is to great to make much out of anything really... rear end is written off, with much damage to the components within.

Although I'm looking for an old Bus to disassemble, clean up, and reassemble in my game room... I think that'd be badass! Stick some curtains on the windows, some lights around the headliner border, a small couch, and the TV/DVD/ game consoles. Hehehe :rock:

[Zoos]

Hey look for a Westy, it already has the curtains, then you could take the top off, and hang the TV, Eh?

[VolksFaggin]

I just was offered to build a Ghia for a friend of mine whos selling his RX7. 8k and I have to deliever it in a month to him, finished.


I think i can do it all for 6k and keep the rest and just take a full month off. :-D VW Spring Break!

[Toastr]

Sweetness! If you want any of the parts I told'ja about lemme know... still up for grabs.

[slideshow240]

i still want a VW....if i got one would any of yall help me restore it on the weekends? like body off resto? possibly.....

[Toastr]

First off, get these following books :
'For Aircooled VW's Includes Hi*Performance*History*Suppliers*The Dread Auto-Trottel*Trouble,Trouble,Trouble How to Keep your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step by step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot By John Muir
Chilton's
Just be sure you don't get one with ANY rust whatsoever on the framehead. It's typical to expect some under the battery tray, but the pan quarters are easily replaceable if you're doing a body-off. I did a body-on resto to mine, so I'm not that well versed in body removal and such... depending on my class and work schedule I might be able to help, just depends on what Type you get how much work it needs where.

[VolksFaggin]

you should make a westy bagged with all your electronics inside. Then, let me borrow it. uh... the end. :D lol

[VolksFaggin]

i still want a VW....if i got one would any of yall help me restore it on the weekends? like body off resto? possibly.....


I would recommend spending the lil bit of extra money on getting a bug that has nice floor pans. To try to restore a rust bucket will only get a novice frustrated. Spend the lil extra money so you dont have to worry as much. Even if you just find a nice lil body with no motor, thats easier to deal with then a rusty battery section on the floor.

[VolksFaggin]

BTW, I just want to ask everybody, how long have you been working on your current ACVW car,bus?


I have had my 69 for 2 years now, and only driven it twice.

[VolksFaggin]

Sweetness! If you want any of the parts I told'ja about lemme know... still up for grabs.


:thumb: Will do bro, hopefully western union has some cash for me. :rock:

[Toastr]

BTW, I just want to ask everybody, how long have you been working on your current ACVW car,bus?


I have had my 69 for 2 years now, and only driven it twice.
Had mine for 3 years, worked on it many many times... drove it every day it wasn't out of commission. One of the selling points of the Bug to me... start ripping it apart Friday afternoon, build and drop in a mod motor, and then drive it to school or work the following Monday :rock:

['89 Probe]

Had mine for 3 years, worked on it many many times... drove it every day it wasn't out of commission. One of the selling points of the Bug to me... start ripping it apart Friday afternoon, build and drop in a mod motor, and then drive it to school or work the following Monday :rock:
and Rock the Lot!

[Toastr]

and Rock the Lot!
The Ellington Field parking lot to be exact, if you remember :cool:

[Zoos]

I also remember the Pics you should me of you doing those doughnuts out at that Air Force Base :rolleyes:

Volkdraggin Were you talking about my Westy? I would like to, but I dont know how a bagg'd Westphalia Camper would be in Michigan Winters, and there is other work to be done b4 I can do that, Like replacing the canvas Top, and getting the motor back up to spec, and then getting the interior back up to spec, and then the Body done and painted hehe I got some work, Oh but i got the Lights working YaY

[Toastr]

I also remember the Pics you should me of you doing those doughnuts out at that Air Force Base :rolleyes:
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :rock:
http://img192.exs.cx/img192/951/bugfun19qc.jpg
http://img192.exs.cx/img192/5254/bugfun27yx.jpg
http://img192.exs.cx/img192/8827/bugfun31em.jpg

[Zoos]

GOD DAMNIT!!!! The weather people are calling for 9+ inches of SNOW!!! that is both good and bad, Good cause it will mean with all the wetness on the ground, it will freeze, and we will have a day off of school!!!!

[Toastr]

Well I have a day off class and it's supposed to be around 75*.... Eat me Tim :thumb: How's about some interior shots of your Westy? I'm curious as to what condition the interior's in if the outside looks as clean as it does :)

[VolksFaggin]

LOL I am going to post this in the drifter section. lol

http://www.bugsnbuggies.com/images/slideme.jpg

[Toastr]

LOL I am going to post this in the drifter section. lol
:rock: Reminds me of the the new Meyers Manx offroad version... I so desperately want the streetrod variation.... Actually has a roof now :eek3: :roflmao:

[VolksFaggin]

Sweet, Post a pic! :)

[Toastr]

The offroad model:

http://img217.exs.cx/img217/37/manx02tt4ij.jpg
http://img217.exs.cx/img217/3901/manx03tt9zk.jpg
http://img217.exs.cx/img217/8894/manx04tt5cb.jpg

And the Manxter 2+2

http://img217.exs.cx/img217/150/splitmtn6au.jpg
http://img217.exs.cx/img217/8508/manxter1lg8sk.jpg

And the Dual Sport 2+2 (basically the Manxter but Baja-style)

http://img236.exs.cx/img236/6345/dualsport1500bu.jpg
http://img236.exs.cx/img236/2403/dualsportrear2204xy.jpg

All are available as build-it-yourself kits, or 95% complete just plug-in the drivetrain of your choice and add fluids and have fun. They come gel-coated or something so the color's in the molding, not painted. I personally would like the bright red Manxter 2+2 with a nice robust 2789 or 2840cc... mmmmm.

[_max_POWER]

i just read through all 11 pages of this and i knew NOTHING about old VWs until this thread. lol. what do you guys mean by "pans"? are the kharman ghias any good? my uncles neighbor has one thats been sitting for as long as i can remember. it looks NICE though. :thumb: to all you VW guys. you guys show alot of dedication.

[Toastr]

Pans are the floorboards, or floor pans. These are obviously one of the most important parts of the car since everything sits on them. Rusted floorpan's just aren't fun to replace, since to properly to do one must remove the interior and body from the pan to bolt and weld in the new ones. Rust under the battery tray is to be expected on most older VW's, simply because of the battery and the acid, blahblahblah. Ghia's are just as nice as any other acVW, I like them because the lines are nice and smooth and flow perfectly. That and with a nice, tasteful drop and rims and a 2110cc or so, you'll have great looks with the oopmh the back them up.

[Zoos]

Did you know when Karmann Coachwerk was given the chance to do the Ghia, they modeled it after a Woman laying down? Look at one when you get a chance, the back fenders being the legs, and going towards the front. Just dont ask me waht the Bus was modeled after. JK

Actually I just went for a drive in the Westy. Much fun. Well the interior needs some work like I said. Ill try to take some pic's this afternoon, but i have to get over to the theatre, if its still not snowing later, maybe tommarow. Ill get some up. Its in need of work.

Oh Toastr, Manxters have always been Hardtop.

[Toastr]

Did you know when Karmann Coachwerk was given the chance to do the Ghia, they modeled it after a Woman laying down? Look at one when you get a chance, the back fenders being the legs, and going towards the front. Just dont ask me waht the Bus was modeled after. JK

Actually I just went for a drive in the Westy. Much fun. Well the interior needs some work like I said. Ill try to take some pic's this afternoon, but i have to get over to the theatre, if its still not snowing later, maybe tommarow. Ill get some up. Its in need of work.

Oh Toastr, Manxters have always been Hardtop.
Yeah, I meant movable top for eased entry... I know you said the brakes are a little squooshy on Tails, any idea what's ailing them? Just don't screw him up with the snow and ice... I'd have to beat you with a heaterbox :eh:

[VolksFaggin]

Pans are the floorboards, or floor pans. These are obviously one of the most important parts of the car since everything sits on them. Rusted floorpan's just aren't fun to replace, since to properly to do one must remove the interior and body from the pan to bolt and weld in the new ones. Rust under the battery tray is to be expected on most older VW's, simply because of the battery and the acid, blahblahblah. Ghia's are just as nice as any other acVW, I like them because the lines are nice and smooth and flow perfectly. That and with a nice, tasteful drop and rims and a 2110cc or so, you'll have great looks with the oopmh the back them up.


Shit, with a 2110 and some slicks, you have a bug that will lift the front tires 2 feet. :thumb: :eekbunny: :rock: :cool:

[Lucky Loser]

I miss my 66 bug it was the only one I seen that had air ducts that bolted to the grill and ran into the cab.

[VolksFaggin]

yeah they have some lil scoops on ebay that looks like baby wrx hood scoops lol

[Tbone16]

Speaking of the wrx.......
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=user&user=10&op=view_album&album=47

[Toastr]

Eeeeeh...... Betcha that engine bay gets messy as hell with no wheel tubs... ick. Nice lookin' Bug though, I love that one-piece front end. The chop is nicely done too, not too extreme and keeps the lines flowing.

[Tbone16]

Its an aussie car, I believe there are some short vids in the gallery also.

[Zoos]

Yeah, I meant movable top for eased entry... I know you said the brakes are a little squooshy on Tails, any idea what's ailing them? Just don't screw him up with the snow and ice... I'd have to beat you with a heaterbox :eh:

Well, Then I am just gonna look into what it might be, the PO said it prolly needs the Master Cylinder replaced. Yeah Screw up wtih him on Snow and Ice, In Michigan, are you crazy....snow and ice in Michigan. No but seriously, Tails takes a while to get outta second, might be just cause he hasnt been drivin in a while, so the Tranny is still a little cold I dont know, But Ima gonna start thinking about switching to a proper 4-speed, instead of that Auto. But then the Auto's are kinda rare, and Rare means more Money when it comes time to sell. So maybe it'll stay, and Besides if I remember your Box is an auto, so it cant be that bad.

[Toastr]

Well, Then I am just gonna look into what it might be, the PO said it prolly needs the Master Cylinder replaced. Yeah Screw up wtih him on Snow and Ice, In Michigan, are you crazy....snow and ice in Michigan. No but seriously, Tails takes a while to get outta second, might be just cause he hasnt been drivin in a while, so the Tranny is still a little cold I dont know, But Ima gonna start thinking about switching to a proper 4-speed, instead of that Auto. But then the Auto's are kinda rare, and Rare means more Money when it comes time to sell. So maybe it'll stay, and Besides if I remember your Box is an auto, so it cant be that bad.
I despise auto, the only reason I got mine that way is because the wait period was shorter. I'd go ahead and yank the tranny, restore what needs it, and sell it since it's rare. Then again, a factory-auto Type2 would be worth a lot... I dunno. Your call, originality or have fun rowing through your own gears (literally... 10" throws :roflmao:). I do know that manual's handle the extra power of mod motors better :cool:

[Zoos]

Who says Im gonna get a modded motor in it? Maybe Ill jsut leave it, since Im low on funds anyway?

[Toastr]

Bah... eventually you'll feel the need for a liiiittle more motorvation. Enter the 1776, and all will be good. Little more oomph for easier cruising and passing (no more getting a head start from 1/4 mile away), and people won't be desperately trying to get past you before the next hill :rofl:. And you'll still retain your mpg figures. Unless of course you do a 3.6L Porsche conversion that was in a T2 a few months back in VWTrends. 13 sec 1/4's alllll day :rock:

[Zoos]

Dude Im already sitting on a 2000cc. Freikin Type 41 remember. 75+ had 2.0's. 73-74 had the 1800, and 72 had the 1700. Duh. But the Porsche Converstion might be interesting. I know I'll find one on Ebay, and put it in the Westy when I come down, then you can help fab a way to get it in ok? might only be the 2.7ltr - 3.2ltr. Money is tight.

[VolksFaggin]

Speaking of the wrx.......
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=user&user=10&op=view_album&album=47


Thats a god damn peice of art work! *drool*

[Toastr]

Dude Im already sitting on a 2000cc. Freikin Type 41 remember. 75+ had 2.0's. 73-74 had the 1800, and 72 had the 1700. Duh. But the Porsche Converstion might be interesting. I know I'll find one on Ebay, and put it in the Westy when I come down, then you can help fab a way to get it in ok? might only be the 2.7ltr - 3.2ltr. Money is tight.
Sounds good :thumb: Then we'll road trip to Ron's, pick him up, and commence the VW cruisage. Since by the time you get here I intend to have a new toy sitting in the garage :rock: Probably a 66-67 this time... Try'n find one with a crunched front for the lower price, then get a one-piece tilt front end. Get some fiberglass or carbon fiber rear fenders and decklid to help even out the weight a big (painted of course). Sigh... I just realized that had I found out why my brakes were becoming spongy a week after every adjustment sooner, I'd still have the BBX. Freaking leaky master cylinder, and stupid fucking cell-phone using soccer mom. Even had that damned soccerball on the rear window with her kid's name on it.

But yeah, if you can find one I'll help ya with it :rock:

[VolksFaggin]

I have a crushed front 67 with fresh breaks and no engine for 500. Not really mine, a shop I know. Its orange.


Where do you find the carbon fiber fenders? That decklid is tight, though I cant use a deck lid so it doesnt matter

[Zoos]

sweet, new weekend project. I wonder if my uncle would mind me tearing apart his 72 911 Targa? Prolly wouldnt like that.....Yeah think of it this way, if I get the interior done on Tails, then we wont need to stay at any hotels. :)

[Toastr]

I have a crushed front 67 with fresh breaks and no engine for 500. Not really mine, a shop I know. Its orange.


Where do you find the carbon fiber fenders? That decklid is tight, though I cant use a deck lid so it doesnt matter
Not sure about the C/F fenders... I saw them in the Sept. 2003 of VWTrends, Supercharged SuperB starting on page 55. '75 Super, s/c'd 2387cc putting out 211rwhp @ 5500rpm / 215ftlb @ 4000rpm (of which 200 are reached at 2800 :eek3: Oh, and the Berg 5spd tranny and RUF 18" rims... :drool:

Do you have any contact info/pics for that '67? I'm interested :cool:

[Zoos]

Um im pretty sure you would have to get them specially made by Carbon Joe, over on German-look.com I think that is the site. That or Remmel is another one.

[VolksFaggin]

Sweet, I will run over there and see if i cant hire him to make me some. I will get the information for the bug and post it here tommorow for you. I have to go get another oil pump cover sence mine with the oil filter wont work with my exhaust so I can get some pictures.

[Tbone16]

Ill ask Reub where he got his decklid, I think there was a thread about it.

*edit* Reub (the VWRX guy) got his decklid from ebay austrailia. Not much help I gues.

[Toastr]

Ill ask Reub where he got his decklid, I think there was a thread about it.

*edit* Reub (the VWRX guy) got his decklid from ebay austrailia. Not much help I gues.
Sure it helps, just check out their website and search for it... it's mass-produced which means there'll be a company name somewhere on the auction page. I'd do it but I'm late for class, which is downtown at 830 :eek3:

[Tbone16]

We have got to keep this monster alive! Quick someone post some new cars!

[Toastr]

We have got to keep this monster alive! Quick someone post some new cars!
Here's some pics of the Bug I want... '59 ragtop, 1641cc, freshly rebuilt everything else... $7k :thumb: I would, of course, sell the engine and tranny and obtain a 2332cc w/ Prostreet, and some bigger (205) rear tires. :rock:

http://img134.exs.cx/img134/87/bug12bv.jpg
http://img134.exs.cx/img134/5940/bug25rp.jpg
http://img134.exs.cx/img134/4098/bug32de.jpg
http://img134.exs.cx/img134/3/bug40jl.jpg

click for more info (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=111089)

[VolksFaggin]

I SAY GOD DAMN! That paint job is nothing more then fucking sweet! Double Props for the low backs! I love those seats.

[VolksFaggin]

The more I look at it, the more it just needs the bumpers and chrome pulled and it would be twice as sweet!

[Zoos]

I think it is pure joygasm the way it is! Go for it Toastr, then you will have somethin to ride with when we take that VW Roadtrip. Not hot about the steering wheel though. The rest of the package is beautiful. Now how much are they asking? Wasnt it like 4500 or more?

[slideshow240]

de-chrome and paint black with porsche phone dials in polished finish with the 2332cc also. then id buy for 7K

[Zoos]

So you would screw that beautiful paint job up, jsut to throw on some Black. And Ill tell ya what i would rather have it black with some detailed Fuchs than phonedials. I dont really care for those. To cheap looking for Porsche.

[slideshow240]

So you would screw that beautiful paint job up, jsut to throw on some Black. And Ill tell ya what i would rather have it black with some detailed Fuchs than phonedials. I dont really care for those. To cheap looking for Porsche.
i guess but the phone dials are just sexxy to me. and yes black pearl....i love black.

[Zoos]

Thats why they say 'Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder.'

[slideshow240]

every one has there preferance....true

[VolksFaggin]

buh...buh.... buh... *drool*

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4526833517&category=46093&sspagename=WDVW

[Zoos]

OMFG You know how much that stuff is worth?????? And tis never been used. 9000 And the reserve was not met, wow.

[Zoos]

Ok I have come to the conclusion, that I would like to bag the Westy. Unfortunatly I am kinda low on cash, and would not be able to afford a Custom Coach Works Job if I sold me arms and legs. What are some companies that provide this in a do-it-yourself bundle? I remember reading in VWtrends that Air Ride Technologies had a kit, and then there were some others. Anyone know of anything. Thanks alot.

[VolksFaggin]

Nope, I would just get your welder, a plasma cutter, some drop spindles and bags and go to work! :)

[Toastr]

Hey anybody in here lookin for a 1999 lude with the h-22 v-tec engine, for 7700$ its got the auto and standard shifter and sunroof 80,000Miles
No threadjacking, thanks. Post in the right forum so our beast of a VW info thread doesn't get locked.

And everbody else, I'm seriously contemplating that '59... only cosmetic changes I would make are some euro blades and chrome empi-8's (still with the 205 rears), and a white steering wheel. Of course now that I've been owned by tuition and my Box service fees, I can't afford it... hopefully it'll be there in a couple of months, it HAS been up for sale for about 6mo. already... :cross:
Zoos, 'bagging the Westy is a great idea... just find the parts you need and do it yourself. You'll get the experience, plus you'll know what could be causing problems if any arise (since you did the work yourself). Just be SURE you get a proper water-drainage system, as water will most likely form in your tank and such due to the climate in your region :thumb:

[Zoos]

Um...What does a bag suspension need? I am really not sure. I like the looks of Bag'd busses, but have no idea about what goes into em. Hey how long, and how much would go into a system like that?

Oh and Toastr, if dont you want to re-drill your drums, you would have to go wtih the EMPI 5's not the 8's.

[CBR_TOY]

im surprised this hasn't been archived yet......

[Toastr]

Oh and Toastr, if dont you want to re-drill your drums, you would have to go wtih the EMPI 5's not the 8's.
*cough* disc brake swap *cough* :rock: Gotta have something better than drums my friend, especially with the way drivers around here go about switching lanes and running lights. That and a 2332 tends to provide sliiiightly more power than the stocker's can handle from a high-speed zipping about

[Zoos]

ah yes forgot about the 2332. And we dont have weird drivers like that up here in Michigan, at least not where I live.

[Toastr]

Um...What does a bag suspension need? I am really not sure. I like the looks of Bag'd busses, but have no idea about what goes into em. Hey how long, and how much would go into a system like that?
Well, obviously the airbags (or cylinders, depends..), airlines, valves, compressor(s), and an air tank. Oh, and switches. Entire setup is absolutely useless without switches :thumb: