which amp would be good for.....

[UgotRipped7]

ok...so now that i've got these 10" JL w-3's, i need an amp for it, now i've heard that the JL 500/1 would be badass for those particular speakers, now without any controversy (just opinions), any other suggestions? if u suggest a high-powered amp, please explain to me how i could get all of it to work without draining mad power from my car battery. thanx guys.........

[*J*]

I personally couldn't see spending that much on a JL 500 amp so I am using one of those old, bad ass, punch 800's. My shit hits so damn hard. I have 2 12" W3's.

[akaPsyco™]

jl1000/1 two extra batteries ohio generators altinator and oh...opps...you just wanted a simple amp?...go with the 500/1...LOL

[akaPsyco™]

Jenni...if you would like a 500/1 I can get them all day for 362.40

[tuanieee]

i got 2 10" w3s ... i have 2 jbl 150.1 amps running on them ... dont believe its pushing it all the way

[dak4.7]

Originally posted by tuanieee
i got 2 10" w3s ... i have 2 jbl 150.1 amps running on them ... dont believe its pushing it all the way

The JBL amps are really good for the cash. On them like most amps tho (and unlike the JL amps) impedence actually matters. If you are running the subs at 4ohm, or even (god help you) 8ohm, you wouldn't get near enough power to run them to full par.

at 4ohm you'd be getting 75 per sub, I think RMS on them is like 200 or 250 right? Have someone that knows the difference between series and parallel wiring (or you, if you know the difference) check how the subs are wired, as well as what impedence config the subs are individually, and figure out what imp level the amp is running at..

[dak4.7]

Originally posted by UgotRipped7
ok...so now that i've got these 10" JL w-3's, i need an amp for it, now i've heard that the JL 500/1 would be badass for those particular speakers, now without any controversy (just opinions), any other suggestions? if u suggest a high-powered amp, please explain to me how i could get all of it to work without draining mad power from my car battery. thanx guys.........

If you are on a fairly tight budget, the JBL BP series (as I was just saying above) are really nice for the cash. They have amps that do 300, 600, and 1200 mono at 2ohm, so you could just find out what impedence your subs are to make sure you get the right amp to wire them up to.

The newer style Clarion amps (I think the series is like DX-###, I forget excatly how they denote the model numbers, but it's their most recent line) have shown quite similar characteristics to ARC amps internally....plus they just sound pretty good, those would also be good for the price.

And US Acoustics ownz you for bang for the buck :thumb:

Just some more choices to throw into the mix..

[UgotRipped7]

so dak4.7, if u had my speakers, which amp would YOU get? as u can tell, i'm not really into the whole audio stuff, but i already got akapsyco's opinion, and i think i'll go with the JL500/1 as long as i can get it at a discount, but u never know. if i go cheaper, i might need a badass amp that will get me the most bump for my cash. thanx......

[tuanieee]

how much can u get another 10" w3 for??? cause im wantin more bumps in my ride

[akaPsyco™]

Originally posted by tuanieee
how much can u get another 10" w3 for??? cause im wantin more bumps in my ride

to add just one more 10" (to do it right) you would have to scratch the system and start over...so why not just go up to 12's?...build a box that woudl rock them and you might be able to keep your amps...


I just got the hook-up on audiobaun AMPS and woofers so if you want something in the line send me a PM with the model numbers you want...and I will get you the price...

[dak4.7]

Originally posted by UgotRipped7
so dak4.7, if u had my speakers, which amp would YOU get? as u can tell, i'm not really into the whole audio stuff, but i already got akapsyco's opinion, and i think i'll go with the JL500/1 as long as i can get it at a discount, but u never know. if i go cheaper, i might need a badass amp that will get me the most bump for my cash. thanx......

Well, if you could get the 500/1 for like 346 or whatever aka says he gets it at, then I would definitely go that route, cuz I think the JBL 600.1, without an 'aka discount' :) would be something like 250 bucks. And despite my remarks in the previous threads, the JL amp IS in fact a beefy amp, and of better overall build quality than that JBL or US acoustics amps.

If I was going cheap tho, just in case you have to like you said, I would go the route of the JBL probably. The 600.1 and 1200.1 (not sure about the 300.1) are stable down to 1ohm (they don't produce any more power from 2ohm to 1ohm, but they CAN be run at 1ohm if needed) so the amp would still be able to work with any number of speaker impedences.

[bLk WiDoW guRL]

Originally posted by UgotRipped7
ok...so now that i've got these 10" JL w-3's, i need an amp for it, now i've heard that the JL 500/1 would be badass for those particular speakers, now without any controversy (just opinions), any other suggestions? if u suggest a high-powered amp, please explain to me how i could get all of it to work without draining mad power from my car battery. thanx guys.........


Have you heard how Vuthy's car hits?? Cus that is what hes running in his car... 2 JL 10's with the 500/1 JL Amp...and also a seperate Alpine or Eclipse Amp for the highs.....so if you like how his sounds go with the 500/1....but it DOES drain your battery so you would also need a good capacitor(SP?) , and maybe an extra battery just to be safe....im looking for that amp too hehe i got only one JL10w3..and we tried it on Vuthys amp and it bang'd the shit outta my poor car LoL....but then again my 10" is in a bandpass AND ported box.....( an HO box)...i think thats what its called.. i forgot i got it a while back...

[akaPsyco™]

Originally posted by bLk WiDoW guRL



Have you heard how Vuthy's car hits?? Cus that is what hes running in his car... 2 JL 10's with the 500/1 JL Amp...and also a seperate Alpine or Eclipse Amp for the highs.....so if you like how his sounds go with the 500/1....but it DOES drain your battery so you would also need a good capacitor(SP?) , and maybe an extra battery just to be safe....im looking for that amp too hehe i got only one JL10w3..and we tried it on Vuthys amp and it bang'd the shit outta my poor car LoL....but then again my 10" is in a bandpass AND ported box.....( an HO box)...i think thats what its called.. i forgot i got it a while back...


if you just have one and you don't want 2...go with a JL250/1...those hit hard.

[mikesrex]

Originally posted by sexilude
I personally couldn't see spending that much on a JL 500 amp so I am using one of those old, bad ass, punch 800's. My shit hits so damn hard. I have 2 12" W3's.

Punch amps own....I've had too many to count, and they have always been awesome.

I currently have no subs in my car, but I usually power either some Punch HX2 12's, a Shocker Extreme 15, or sometimes a JL 10w3d4 with my trusty Punch BD1000.1 .

The key to getting the hardest hitting bass with good low bass extension is to have a well designed ported subwoofer enclosure.

I have some good links in my favorites somewhere to sites that explain how different types of sub enclosures work.

good luck with your systems everyone,

[bLk WiDoW guRL]

Originally posted by akaPsyco™


if you just have one and you don't want 2...go with a JL250/1...those hit hard.


THAT IS what I have..LoL
I got a JL Audio 250/1 pushin my JL Audio 10w3
it sounds pretty good for me since i am a girl.... but I like how my b/f car hits... so i want the bigger amp....hehe :)

[UgotRipped7]

Originally posted by bLk WiDoW guRL



THAT IS what I have..LoL
I got a JL Audio 250/1 pushin my JL Audio 10w3
it sounds pretty good for me since i am a girl.... but I like how my b/f car hits... so i want the bigger amp....hehe :)

yeah i've been in the car and heard Vu's speakers bump, they sound really good. i dont think i'd need another amp like he has though, just the 500/1 for the subs and thats it. but i did hear from someone that i would need a capacitor. but if it drains too much power, i should get a new battery? i thought Vuthy had three 10"s? i think i'm gonna go with the 500/1 JL just cause it seems to be the most recommended one. but i like Vuthy's too cause it doesnt rattle at all, he has dyno matt? his just sounds really clear, even with all that screw playin'! lol.

[akaPsyco™]

if you want...just replace your battery under the hood with a gel cell...its a better battery ...and dynamat is the way to go...on my old car...that is all you see...I took all the pannel'n I made so when you look at the car as it sitz all you see is dynamat...

go with a bulk pak....there expensive but well worth it.

[UgotRipped7]

yeah i was wondering about that as well, i guess thats what Vuthy has cause his sounds really clear with no trunk rattling at all. i have a friend that works at an audio place and said he could get my whole trunk done with dynamat for about $60 so..... i guess i'll do that as well......

[akaPsyco™]

do it..its well worth it...I spent like 150 to do my turnk...back desk finder walls and in some places two layers...

[GSteg]

i highly am against capacitors. its the last thing you should get for your system (after alternator or alternator rewind).

for sound deadening material, second skin or eDead is the way to go. i just can't think of myself spending so much money on dynamat to get the same results. but thats just me. i like saving money :thumb:

[dak4.7]

Why not deaden with RAAMmat, way cheaper

[Chris]

capacitors = marketing scam

[akaPsyco™]

ok...if you want sound dead'n go all out...MDF wood slits, kitty hair, and concrete....you'll have an 11000 pound truck like the guys that have the world record now...LOL

[UgotRipped7]

i'm really not too knowledgeable of what a capacitor does, but if it helps not to drain so much power from my battery, then i'll be all for it......

[GSteg]

Originally posted by UgotRipped7
i'm really not too knowledgeable of what a capacitor does, but if it helps not to drain so much power from my battery, then i'll be all for it......

chances are you're going to need one. :)

[Chris]

capacitors arent worth the money.. just go with an extra battery

[akaPsyco™]

go with a gel cell under the hood...and after that...if you still want to...go with a small gel cell in the back $120...1 farad cap $140-210...

[dak4.7]

I'd consider a battery dedicated to stereo equipement, and upgrading your alternator, before I would even remotely consider caps. Just a bang for the buck thought.

[Screenz]

I still stick w/ planet audio. Never had a problem, why change been doin mid 50's on one amp cant beat that and for 250 bucks it's a steal :D

[UgotRipped7]

an extra battery? where would i put it??? just wondering.....never thought audio stuff needed so many accessories! lol. but hey, as long as its worth it in the end.......

[GSteg]

second battery isn't going to help if your alternator can't keep up with the demands. it'll just help keep you running longer and stabalizes the voltage better (what a capacitor is intended to do). if you're going to get a cap, get the one with the LOW LOW LOW ESR rating. can't be found for cheap though. best thing to do is get an alternator rewind. should cost about $60 or so.

[akaPsyco™]

Originally posted by UgotRipped7
an extra battery? where would i put it??? just wondering.....never thought audio stuff needed so many accessories! lol. but hey, as long as its worth it in the end.......

I would build a box that it would go in and carpet it...or something...they don't have to be seen.

[akaPsyco™]

Originally posted by GSteg
second battery isn't going to help if your alternator can't keep up with the demands. it'll just help keep you running longer and stabalizes the voltage better (what a capacitor is intended to do). if you're going to get a cap, get the one with the LOW LOW LOW ESR rating. can't be found for cheap though. best thing to do is get an alternator rewind. should cost about $60 or so.

pearland altinators does a good job...there in the yellow pages...

[NisAznMonk]

Man, this is a pretty good discussion. Guess I'll put in some personal experience.

I'm not an expert on car audio, but I've been through several systems. Right now I'm fighting with a local stereo shop for screwing up my 2001 Tacoma.

Anyways, on the capacitor issue, I question that as well. I have a 1 Farad Digital cap I picked up new from the unnamed stereo shop, and the digital meter regularly shows 13.6 - 13.7. Now I experimented one night in my driveway and cranked up my system pretty high. I am running a Rockford Fosgate power BD 1000a1 amp to two 12 inch Diamond Audio CM3 subwoofers. The voltage meter went down as low as 12.4 on certain bass notes, and the headlights actually dimmed. My truck engine was also turned on. Do they work? I have no idea. I'm considering a alternator rewind, but I'm scared on how much it'll cost and if it'll void my extended factory warranty. I'd also buy a gel cell in addition to the alternator rewind, because the gel cell is supposedly better at quick discharging and recharging compared to a stock car battery.

[GSteg]

your cap is basically worthless. with a digital top, the ESR rise, destroying the cap's intended purpose. with a high ESR, there is just too much resistance for the current to flow when the amp needs the juice. a low ESR cap will run you a lot of $$. the ones that are good are generally about $175+ for a .5 farad. Brax/Felix makes some good caps. i would first upgrade the 3 main wire (very cheap solution) and get a rewind before a capacitor.

[CivicEX Boi]

Hey ugotripped7, shut up..lol! :fight: :blue: J.p

[UgotRipped7]

Originally posted by CivicEX Boi
Hey ugotripped7, shut up..lol! :fight: :blue: J.p

considering that u are my roommate here at college, i'll take it easy on ya on here and kick ur ass in person! haha. but thanx for all ur input guys, its greatly appreciated. like i said, i've never been too much into audio, but i figure, if my car is gonna be nice all-around, then i'm gonna need a little 'something something' in the trunk. so thanx for all opinions and comments......

[akaPsyco™]

cap...charge quickly and discharge quickly

batteries (gel cell) charge slow and discharge slow...optimal power usage

factory batteries...(lead something...its be awhile sence I had one) these charge and discharge about average...with all the stuff in your car...but what makes these differant for a gel cell is water...and some other stuff inside...they can't hald anything to the amount of power that a gel cell can hold...factory battery...650 crank'n amps...gel cell same size 1500 crank'n amps...see the differance?

[NisAznMonk]

Originally posted by GSteg
your cap is basically worthless. with a digital top, the ESR rise, destroying the cap's intended purpose. with a high ESR, there is just too much resistance for the current to flow when the amp needs the juice. a low ESR cap will run you a lot of $$. the ones that are good are generally about $175+ for a .5 farad. Brax/Felix makes some good caps. i would first upgrade the 3 main wire (very cheap solution) and get a rewind before a capacitor.

Who would you suggest to do a alternator rewind?

[dak4.7]

On other audio message boards, several other houstonians have also recommended Pearland Alternator like akapsycho did up above. They seem to be popular for that kinda job :)

I'm not sure how they price it exactly, I've heard of some people paying almost 200 to get it rewound, but then some people also get raped on prices and don't know it...so who knows :)

[dak4.7]

Originally posted by Screenz
I still stick w/ planet audio. Never had a problem, why change been doin mid 50's on one amp cant beat that and for 250 bucks it's a steal :D

Planet audio is made (well, was, not sure if it's still true or not) by the same company that does the boards for the US Acoustics amps, so the quality should rightfully be pretty good on them as well.

[dak4.7]

Originally posted by GSteg
your cap is basically worthless. with a digital top, the ESR rise, destroying the cap's intended purpose. with a high ESR, there is just too much resistance for the current to flow when the amp needs the juice. a low ESR cap will run you a lot of $$. the ones that are good are generally about $175+ for a .5 farad. Brax/Felix makes some good caps. i would first upgrade the 3 main wire (very cheap solution) and get a rewind before a capacitor.

Should that be Brax/Helix? If not, where's some info on Felix, cuz I haven't heard anything about them yet..

[GSteg]

oh crap..yea..its helix..i was watching felix the cat on TV and got carried away:thumb: